Shifting problems

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r2276b
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Joined: Mon Aug 28, 2006 7:40 pm

Shifting problems

#1

Post by r2276b » Fri May 02, 2008 6:14 am

When I downshift on my 59 FLH, the trans grinds, even if I double clutch. Upshifting is pretty normal with a slight clunk . My 47 shifted like butter, so this can't be right. Clutch seems to be releasing fully. BTW it's a 3 speed with reverse.



john HD
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#2

Post by john HD » Fri May 02, 2008 11:41 am

primary chain too tight?

john

r2276b
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#3

Post by r2276b » Sat May 03, 2008 1:52 am

I don't think so. It has at least an inch to inch and a half movement in the center (cold). I took the clutch apart and the last owner put an extra plate in (5) instead of the 4 like the manual says, but everything I read looks like that's actually an upgrade. The basket spins freely with the clutch depressed.

steve_wood
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#4

Post by steve_wood » Sat May 03, 2008 2:00 am

Hmmm.... me thinks the chain slack should only be 0.5".

steve

fourthgear
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#5

Post by fourthgear » Sat May 03, 2008 3:33 am

Rotate the primary chain till you find the tightest spot and adj. as posted above to 1/2 " deflection in chain. Then see how she shifts .

51Hog
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#6

Post by 51Hog » Sat May 03, 2008 3:42 am

Speaking of the Tightest spot on the primary chain----
Is it normally the chain that causes the tight loose tight loose while the chain is turning?
Mine does this also. It did it when the chain and sprockets were new. It still does it now.
I adjust the primary so that there is about 1/4 inch play at the tightest spot. The loosest spot is about 3/4 inch.
Same goes for the rear drive chain.

VT

#7

Post by VT » Sat May 03, 2008 12:23 pm

Yes, chains stretch oddly, not your sprockets out of round.
Primary chains stretch pretty fast unless they get a ton of oil dripped on them. I only liked two quarter size drops of oil on the ground when I parked it for a few hours, so I had my oil pump feed needle screw down to only an 1/8 turn out. Wore out a primary chain every 5,000 miles. $35.00 for a chain vs. making a oil puddle.
Sounds like your transmission needs a look-see.

Panacea
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#8

Post by Panacea » Sat May 03, 2008 2:24 pm

Consider the extra wear a tight chain will cause on the sprocket and mainshaft bearings, I leave mine a bit on the loose side, trying to match the primary tension with the drive chain for a nuetral effect on the drive gear. They still have to be close to specs to avoid the lurching effect at low RPM and fat roller chain slap on the drive chain....To each his own, but trying to eliminate oil spots under a pan comes at a price. The best performance IMO is with a stock primary chain, oiled well and a non- "o-ring" chain thats thin enough to clear the inner primary and chainguard without clicking. Mike

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#9

Post by john HD » Sat May 03, 2008 2:37 pm

r2276b,

if your chain is not to tight as you stated the next place to look is the clutch basket itself.

look to see if the splines inside the basket are not deeply grooved from the clutch plates.

as for the plates make sure they are not installed backwards.

after all that, check the hub pins for grooves that would hang the fiber plates.

john

r2276b
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#10

Post by r2276b » Sat May 03, 2008 5:20 pm

I pulled the clutch apart and the last guy installed a 6 plate clutch "upgrade"kit
The pressure plate nuts were just able to thread on. I'm thinking this is at least one plate too many.
Any thoughts?

john HD
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#11

Post by john HD » Sat May 03, 2008 5:57 pm

try "downgrading" and see how it works!

i think 6 is too many!

john

mbskeam
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#12

Post by mbskeam » Sat May 03, 2008 6:05 pm

the best thing to help fix this is this thing

Image

it is a ramjett retainer and they work great. about 10 bucks

it also sounds like your clutch pack stack is to thick, my nuts go right on and have about 1/8 of the stud above the nut when set.

also a warped pressure plate will also cause you no end of grief.....

been there and done this

mbskeam

Robert Luland
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#13

Post by Robert Luland » Sat May 03, 2008 11:15 pm

Bad dogs on mainshaft third, countershaft second and worn shifter clutches. Deal with it before ya really make an aluminum mess. A transmission transmitts. Thats all it does. If you got grinding down shifting. you got problems in the box. No quick fix on the clutch is going to solve this one. Bob

“Any man that forsakes freedom for security deserves neither.”
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#14

Post by Guest » Wed May 14, 2008 2:58 am

I yanked the trans out and pulled the top off. Everything looks clean, tight and new. I moved the gears through the pattern with my fingers and everything seems tight and shifts fine.
What I did notice is one of the shifter fork bushings that go in the shift drum is missing. I'm thinking possibly this would give me enough slop to make downshifting a grinding event. It's the bushing nearest you if the sprocket is facing you.
Any opinions will be helpful, and what should I look for to determine if this thing needs to be pulled apart?

fourthgear
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#15

Post by fourthgear » Wed May 14, 2008 2:31 pm

You sure it just didn't fall out when you pulled the top off , it may have stuck to the shifter drum for a moment. I would thoroughly check the tranny to make sure its not in there , you do need those bushings , they take the slop out of shifting . You should check shifting fork alignment(and make sure they are not bent ) is correct after replacing that bushing . Make sure your shifting clutches and there mating surfaces in the gears are OK . Follow the manual for inspection.

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