Clutch basket question

Transmission, clutch, chains and belts
Forum rules
Please do not start new topics here, but here: New Panhead and Flathead topics
Post Reply
54panman
Posts: 61
Joined: Thu Sep 20, 2007 12:17 am
Location: san fransico bay area cali

Clutch basket question

#1

Post by 54panman » Wed May 14, 2008 7:18 pm

hey all, i noticed yesterday that when i pull my clutch the basket was moving in and out!!! took it apart this morn and the basket pretty much slid right off after i pulled the disks.... is that normal??? also i notice some fiber looking material missing from behind where the basket would go, how do i fix that??? and get the big nut off? as well any advice on changing the seal to the left of the shaft on the tranny mine is leaking like a siv..... see the pic thanks
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.



Guest

#2

Post by Guest » Wed May 14, 2008 10:28 pm

54Panman. If you have already gone this far pull the tranny main shaft seal and check how much pay is in the main shaft fourth gear shaft bushing. No you do not need that fancy tool from Harley Davidson. Just drill a couple of small holes on the face of the seal face and screw in a dent puller and yank that sucker out the getto way. Replacing it is just as easy. A pipe nipple with a cap and a ball pean. Now the fiber stuff is just as easy. First off did the rivets score the rear drum surface? If they did and it’s bad go get yourself a new clutch drum. If the back of the clutch drum is oky-doky. Get your self a 37590-41 disk with rivets or have your local shop rivet it on. If the don’t have the press just go to your local old brake shop. Don’t forget to change the seal in the clutch hub nut. Hope this helps, Bob

54panman
Posts: 61
Joined: Thu Sep 20, 2007 12:17 am
Location: san fransico bay area cali

#3

Post by 54panman » Wed May 14, 2008 10:39 pm

HEY BOB ya that helps.... i got the big nut off now im trying to get the hub off... im soaking it right now... but i tried a backing the big nut off 2 or 3 turns and sliding a deep socket over it with a whack to free it but its not working any ideas? and i think your right, i pulled the tranny out and since i did so i think i might just give it a good once over all the way around... just gotta figure out what all to do and where to start thanks panman

Skip
Posts: 216
Joined: Mon Apr 26, 2004 11:18 pm
Bikes: 48 pan
81 shovel
01 softail std
04 heritage
08 roadking
72 ct70
Location: WV

#4

Post by Skip » Thu May 15, 2008 12:00 am

remember it is a left hand thread!.........Skip

Robert Luland
Posts: 888
Joined: Sun Sep 02, 2007 7:56 pm
Bikes: 1922JD, 1937 ULH, 1946FL 1948FL, 1957FL, 1960FLH, 1965XLCH, 1995 FLHT
Location: Hoboken, NJ
Contact:

#5

Post by Robert Luland » Thu May 15, 2008 12:29 am

Skip your a good man. 54 I'm sorry that was the one thing I should have mentioned. Not only is the tread left hand. I have no clue how your going to get that hub off without a puller. If you try to fug this one you will runnen the hub. Do your self a favor and take that puppy down to the local chopper chop and have them the pull it off. If ya got one you frequent. They will proable do it for free. If they won't. Dump'em! To go and blow $40 clams to by the tool is a waste. Bob

Panacea
Posts: 1827
Joined: Fri May 24, 2002 1:00 am
Bikes: 64FL 99FLHR 01FXSTD
Location: Mpls. MN.

#6

Post by Panacea » Thu May 15, 2008 12:59 am

The first tool you need if you own a panhead is the manual. The second is a clutch hub puller. Mike

Cotten
Posts: 6791
Joined: Mon Aug 26, 2002 9:09 am
Location: Central Illinois

#7

Post by Cotten » Thu May 15, 2008 2:15 am

Besides all of the problems already noted,
lateral travel of the clutch basket is inherent in the original design, and a major cause of chain and sprocket wear .

Modern innovations such as a "Tamer" are a prudent upgrade, especially for footclutch models. They limit the basket's lateral travel quite effectively using materials that were not available to the original designers.

...Cotten
PS: Money spent on a tool is never wasted.
Last edited by Cotten on Thu May 15, 2008 3:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.

mbskeam
Posts: 964
Joined: Tue Mar 16, 2004 5:52 am
Location: Sultan, WASH
Contact:

#8

Post by mbskeam » Thu May 15, 2008 3:42 am

do not use a puller that grabs the backside of the hub this will bend it. use one that takes nuts on the studs. I use a old clutch plate and the T part of a puller hold the T in place, slide the stud of the T thru thr clutch plate hole and onto the studs, then nut this,then thighten the big bolt till the T is tight up to the plate, then when all is square and good. tighten it some more, if it dont wont to come off, give the puller bolt head a pop with the hammer and the hub should POP right off, hang on to it as it will jump right at ya.....LOL
or you could just spin the nut off about 1-1/2 turns an use a large brass drift and a big ol hammer a few solid POPS and it should also come off, but this is only if the right tools are not around.....
I never have done it this way.... :wink:

mbskeam

VT

#9

Post by VT » Thu May 15, 2008 4:34 am

Clymers Manual tells you how to pull the clutch. Vol. 1 shows you how to pull the clutch, plus replace the hub liner. You have a good project, spend the money to buy the ''49-57 service manual, or the 59-69 factory book or Clymers, or Vol. 1, and buy only the tools you need from Kick-Start (616) 245-8991. It's all listed and pic-ed in Vol. 1. Don't go it "alone" - sooner or later you'll be sorry.
www.brattons.com/ has a $25.00 riveter that will work. It's for brake linings.

fourthgear
Posts: 1365
Joined: Mon Apr 11, 2005 1:12 pm
Location: north florida

#10

Post by fourthgear » Thu May 15, 2008 1:54 pm

Get a Nylatron free floating clutch hub lining and you won't need rivets .

Here is a photo of my home made puller I have used for over twenty five years ( repainted many times ). In this photo I am pulling the drum and hub off together because this system not only has the Clutch Tamer on it( the clutch hub nut holds the drum on ), but also the long , no cage clutch bearing set up and I did not want to play "52 Pick up ".

The drum should pull free when clutch plates are removed , stock system , the clutch plates hold it on.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

54panman
Posts: 61
Joined: Thu Sep 20, 2007 12:17 am
Location: san fransico bay area cali

#11

Post by 54panman » Thu May 15, 2008 5:36 pm

hey yall thanks for the help so far.... heres where im at: trannys out, clutchs, drum,hub and sprocket are off... i dont see any damage to the componets other then the hub friction disc and it doesnt appear the 1 peice seal/ hub nut is not leaking just the main seal... so couple holes, dent puller wha-la its out... i tried to lifted/wiggle the end of the main shaft & no movement... only on the spocket spline shaft it moves in and out alittle. so ???? new seal and im good????? anything else???? oh and i have a manual but i never have found it much use with the one bike, with so much being aftermarket!!! thanks panman

54panman
Posts: 61
Joined: Thu Sep 20, 2007 12:17 am
Location: san fransico bay area cali

#12

Post by 54panman » Fri May 16, 2008 6:04 am

anyone have the part # for the tranny main seal???? this local guy are worthless when it comes to older bikes!!!

panhead
Site Admin
Posts: 2471
Joined: Wed Dec 12, 2001 9:17 pm
Bikes: 1954 FL
Location: Holland

#13

Post by panhead » Fri May 16, 2008 7:10 am


Post Reply

Return to “Transmission, Clutch, Belt & Chains”