Stett-Bilt ® '36-64 Needle Bearing Transmission

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VT

Stett-Bilt ® '36-64 Needle Bearing Transmission

#1

Post by VT » Sun Oct 09, 2005 2:58 am

Part# 4SPMDG/1.248
http://www.stettsironhorseranch.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; It's been done before, but Stett and Joe Bravo added two new steps. He made several repairs, stud insert, drain plug thread repair. I'll post the complete invoice. so you can see an estimate of what you'd pay for.
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Stett's investigating the '36-64 transmission from V-Twin, that was returned to us, after adjustments were made in NY. He'll be thorough and fair and it'll be fun. 8)
The (VT 17-0026) transmission shipped back to me with no oil. I added a 1/2 pint of H-D 20W50 (thin-weight) for base stud leak testing. Left it overnight. No leaks at this time.
Harley's new transmission oil is "Formula Plus" or Kendall 60.
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IMO, the entire early OHV replica industry is contingent on Stett being able to find any problems AND solutions to the V-Twin 4-SPD '36-64 transmission we were sent. Our V-Twin transmission started-off affordable, and ends up costing how much to get it right?. We'll post the pix when finished. Other transmissions from V-Twin may be different than ours. They didn't build it for us; it was just was a stock trans. from off the shelf.
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Here's three finished trans rebuilds. A customers '59; a Baker; and my needle-bearing trans is over on the right.
They have a standard at Stett's. Your piece gets it's own platistic clamshell box. All of your old parts are kept, every nut and bolt and gasket, broken or still servicable, just like in the box to the right of my trans. You leave with a tangible history of your repair. Tip-top routine, their shop's as neat as a pin.
Mine needed a new stud (someone had replaced the 5/16 with a 3/8 under the kick cover area) time-serted, not helicoiled.
My drain plug was already oversized and it leaked. Stett oversized a counterbore into the drain hole, and build it up by spiraling-out with a TiG bead to the top; then secured it level to a mill table and finished the surfacing, then tapped it for a standard plug. Leak tested it by filling the drain sump with disc brake cleaner.
The end cover is from V-Twin. It had the alloy finish on it like the replica trans they make. Terry bead blasted the alloy off to match his blasted cases. The drive sprocket is 26T, maximum tooth for a rigid Knuckle or Pan to '36- 64.
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Last edited by VT on Sun Oct 16, 2005 3:10 pm, edited 8 times in total.



VT

#2

Post by VT » Tue Oct 11, 2005 4:21 am

Bill Hawhawout (Lakeside Bill, Old Bill, Wild Bill, Dutch Bill) was the first person to tell me about the FX (cast) shifter cam pattern. He installed them in both transmissions in '91. Luckily, it's the only shifter cam the AM makes. It makes shifting a 405 and 315 degree, wasted-spark, heavy flywheeled motor a whole 'nother world.
The countershaft end cover isn't necessary when using a JIMS shaft. The screw holes don't go through, and an O-ring backs up the JIMS shaft inside the case.
This is for a Primo® belt drive primary. With the bronze bushing gone, the mainshaft won't leak as much oil.
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Last edited by VT on Sun Oct 16, 2005 3:15 pm, edited 10 times in total.

VT

#3

Post by VT » Tue Oct 11, 2005 4:23 am

This was a V-Twin alloy-finish kick cover. Terry blasted it to match the case.
I have three transmissions to compare on the bench. One from Dutch Bill, made up entirely of used, but servicable, OEM parts. On the bench it's smooth to shift through the gears. Feels like a good mesh as you turn the mainshaft. But, a little loose too, if I rack the mainshaft back and forth.
The V-Twin trans I was sent feels tight.
The needle bearing trans Stett-Bilt, feels like one big group of precision (Andrews®) clock gears turning. Goes up into first smoothly, back to neutral, back to 2nd, 3rd, and 4th. All with only a quarter-turn of the mainshaft through each gear. Suavecito amigo :!: 8)
It might turn out that the best thing to do when buying an AM transmission, is to build one. Buy a case shell and fill it up with Andrews gears and the best small parts you can find. You need an expert Harley mechanic that does transmissions all the time, because things pop-up with fitting the AM trans parts together and you need the knowledge and the tools to get it right the first time.
I'll post some pix of my old kick-cover. The AM covers are a little too thick in the shaft boss area, and you either have to mill some material out of the inside surface (in close-up pix), or remove some material off the boss-end of the kicker shaft, in order to have a running clearance for the kick-starter cranking operation. Stett took some off the shaft boss. Different problems might happen with different transmissions. That's our story. Just waiting on the report about the V-Twin transmission.
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VT

#4

Post by VT » Tue Nov 08, 2005 8:07 pm

All of these parts were replaced and return in separate bags along with the re-manufactured transmission. One bag held gears and the other parts from under the kick-cover. A good way to get an education about your machine; which allows you to inspect the part and look it up in the OE Parts Catalog. My trans parts that got the most wear were the mainshaft, the shifter forks and the main drive gear that had a hole worn through the side of the bushing. Every old nut, bolt, washer and gasket was kept back. Their standard operating procedure.
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VT

#5

Post by VT » Sun Nov 13, 2005 11:00 pm

"Customer supplied mainshaft and main drive gear"
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