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Primary chain oiler

Transmission, clutch, chains and belts
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pumper
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Jul 16, 2007 1:32 pm

Primary chain oiler

#1

Post by pumper » Sun Feb 16, 2003 6:30 pm

Description: Primary chain oiler

Whats the best way to plug the primary oiler/vent. I am running a bone stock 52 pan. I want to install a belt primary but I'm not sure what to do about the breather vent. Can it be pluged ? Does the pan engine need a breather vent ? I have got many different views on this. can anyone help. Thanks, Pumper



VintageTwin
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Re: Primary chain oiler

#2

Post by VintageTwin » Wed Feb 19, 2003 2:58 pm

You need a pinion gear puller/installer tool (V-Twin). Remove the pinion gear so you can free-spin the oil pump. Actually the pump won't spin, but you can turn the gear with your thumb. Spin the pump so you know what it feels like, before you remove the oil pump. Might be some tech tip on this in Tech Issues. You need an inch-lbs. torque wrench. You need a 1/16" NPT thread tap and a 1/16" Allen plug. Remove the oil pump. Use grease (to capture the metal shavings) and tap the oil discharge hole in the motor case a few threads. Run the allen plug in. Check to see that the top of the plug sits even with or slightly below the paper gasket surface. So, run the plug in and out and tap some more threads and do this until the top of the plug sits where you want it. Use Halomar seaalant on the threads of the plug, but don't put Halomar on the very first thread. (Read the directions on Halomar, they may require that you only put sealant around three-quarters of the plugs O.D.) The oil discharge hole is the small hole on the bottom right that makes a right turn. Put a plastic tube up to the hole and blow. Make sure that air comes out the oil snoot. Pull your inner and outer primary. Get a motor sprocket seal from Colony. You have a tapered shaft right? Get the correct Colony seal. It's not much of a seal. Has a plastic seal inside of a screw ring. It will help keep oil in the motor. Tighten the bottom four oil pump bolts to 90-110 (100) in.lbs. Check the free spin on the pump. No binding> Then tighten the top two bolts the same. Check the pump free-spin. Never tighten these bolts arbitrarily, you'll bind things up. I think that's it. Anyone else have an opinion? Use a 11mm X 1-1/2" belt and you can run your OE primary covers.

VintageTwin
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Re: Primary chain oiler

#3

Post by VintageTwin » Wed Feb 19, 2003 3:49 pm

The tap and plug are 1/16-27 NPT

pumper
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Jul 16, 2007 1:32 pm

Re: Primary chain oiler

#4

Post by pumper » Thu Feb 20, 2003 3:07 am

Thanks for your help. Sounds like a eazy job. I have the bike apart now doing a totle resto. Thanks again, Pumper

VintageTwin
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Re: Primary chain oiler

#5

Post by VintageTwin » Fri Feb 21, 2003 2:14 am

Let us know how it turns out.

King
Posts: 387
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Re: Primary chain oiler

#6

Post by King » Fri Feb 21, 2003 12:49 pm

Thanks for the info. I will do that job when I go for a cam change on my 51. I have run a belt drive for the last three years using a Rube Goldberg contraption made out of 1/2" copper pipe and plastic hose to divert the breather out the back of the inner primary cover. But I still have some oil getting in. Suspect the motor sprocket seal and would like to get more info on the Colony seal and how it's installed. Also could the tranny seal be a problem?

Thanks

King

VintageTwin
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Re: Primary chain oiler

#7

Post by VintageTwin » Fri Feb 21, 2003 3:21 pm

Use the Colony (7411-2) for '36-54 tapered motor shafts. You need to remove the snap ring 24702-40 and 24776-40 Left Bearing End. The seal slides over the crank and they give you a new snap ring that fits in the crankcase bore. The '55-68 motor sprocket AND transmission seal (7410-1) have left hand threads on the O.D. Looks like you remove the sprocket shaft bearing nut (24031-55) and use the same seal on the transmission. For '55-68 motors: Run the motor seal into the motor tight (sometimes there is over-plating on the seals threads, use a wire brush to remove) and mark the outside of the seal at 6 o'clock. Then remove the seal and make a small (1/8") notch (use a small square file) inside across from your mark for oil to drain out. A little oil gets out of the motor and needs a drain. Look at the diagram on pg.3E-3 of the '59-69 Service Manual and you'll see a tapered area inboard of the (7A) Bearing shield washer. That's where you want the drain slot. Then re-install the seal and tighten. This same seal is used for all of the transmissions. So, King, you need to buy both seals. 800- 321-3412. I haven't done this procedure yet or started the chapter, so someone else may have an opinion

dereborn
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Re: Primary chain oiler

#8

Post by dereborn » Mon Apr 14, 2003 12:37 pm

I just took the "old style" (48-57 I think) breather, cut the bend off the "J" shaped tube, put a hose on it and ran it under the gearbox to the other side, where a small filter is now mounted. took me 10 minutes and cost like 15 bucks. Now my primary belt doesn't have to swim in oil anymore, and my rear whitewall might stay white for more than 3 miles!

panhead
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Re: Primary chain oiler

#9

Post by panhead » Mon Apr 14, 2003 12:55 pm

Why do you use the filter?

dirtpandan58
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Re: Primary chain oiler

#10

Post by dirtpandan58 » Tue Apr 15, 2003 3:40 am

Let me know how that works out. I've done the same thing without the filter. Except I ran the hose on the right side under the tranny. Thinking that the oil that did spray out would at least oil the rear chain.
I know a guy that did that and ran the hose toa spon on o filter set up. Says when it starts spraying oil, he takes the filter off and drains it. Good to go for another month. I just don't like the looks.

Ente
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Re: Primary chain oiler

#11

Post by Ente » Tue Apr 15, 2003 6:23 am

Hi,
the main reason for using a filter is to secure that no dirt will come into the crankcase backway. (I will also act as a little collector for the oil)

dereborn
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Re: Primary chain oiler

#12

Post by dereborn » Tue Apr 15, 2003 7:08 pm

I'll be sure to keep you guys updated! Here in Sweden this is a pretty common way to go, so I'm confident it's gonna work out just fine!

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