Mouse trap adjustment

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doug_heisel
Posts: 156
Joined: Tue Jun 09, 2009 4:45 am
Bikes: 1952 FL
Location: Ottumwa Ia

Mouse trap adjustment

#1

Post by doug_heisel » Wed Jul 08, 2009 3:47 pm

as most of you know by now I'm building a 52 panhead. My engine is finally mounted and together (except the carb) I was wondering can anyone explain how you adjust the mouse trap. I've tried and tried and it just doesn't seem to work properly. I know I'm probably not doing it right. I'm sure I put it together right. Any help would be great Thanks.



VPH-D
Posts: 849
Joined: Tue Feb 01, 2005 1:00 am

Re: Mouse trap adjustment

#2

Post by VPH-D » Wed Jul 08, 2009 4:29 pm

It may sound goofy, but the only way I have been able to adjust a trap is with two people. One reads the instructions while the other guy fiddles with the trap. Works for me!
VPH-D

66FLH
Posts: 6
Joined: Tue Jun 09, 2009 1:35 am
Bikes: 1966 FLH
Location: Georgia

Re: Mouse trap adjustment

#3

Post by 66FLH » Thu Jul 09, 2009 2:41 am

Make sure you are using the stiff foot clutch springs in your clutch, these are needed to pull the booster back in place. Later model springs are weaker so the booster could be eliminated.

Also, make sure the clutch cable is in excellent shape. An old one that seems to be in good shape will drag enough to give you fits. A good lubed cable makes a difference like night and day.

doug_heisel
Posts: 156
Joined: Tue Jun 09, 2009 4:45 am
Bikes: 1952 FL
Location: Ottumwa Ia

Re: Mouse trap adjustment

#4

Post by doug_heisel » Thu Jul 09, 2009 3:28 am

the springs are the original ones I think. Its a brand new cable. I will lube it in the morning. Is there anywhere on the internet that has instructions on what to do to adjust it. there seems to be many ways to adjust diferent things on it. this has me completely bafffled. I couldn't find any help in my clymers.

Ripley/Fla
Ex-member
Posts: 103
Joined: Wed Nov 21, 2007 1:27 am

Re: Mouse trap adjustment

#5

Post by Ripley/Fla » Thu Jul 09, 2009 4:49 am

Adjust primary chain or belt first. Check that the mousetrap is at the correct position on the frame. Make sure your 'spring collar' is adjusted evenly. Depending on what plates you have it may or may not be 31/32" but that's a start. Make sure all pivot points (and the spring) are oiled up and work smoothly. Oil the cable. Remember, hand pressure plus mousetrap spring pressure overcomes clutch spring pressure BUT clutch spring pressure overcomes mousetrap spring pressure. When the clutch is disengaged the clutch lever rod should be at 90 degrees to the bike, if possible. The manual talks about measuring the clutch lever to the ratchet lid, what I do is loosen up the lock nut and gently turn in the adjusting screw forcing the clutch lever back till it hits something. That something is usually the oil bag mounting plate. Get down in the grease and check it out! Then back it out about a half turn. Get down in the dirt and check it out. You want that clutch lever to be able to disengage with some slop so the throwout bearing isn't always pushed on and the lever isn't rubbing a groove in the mounting plate. (Your chain will take care of that!) By hand, disengage the clutch, you will see where it dies. You can mess with the screw to get it 'perfect' if you want. Tighten the locknut on the adjusting screw. Take the cable loose from the hand lever. Adjust the bell crank adjusting screw in till the mousetrap fires and wants to act like a mousetrap. Back it off a little at a time till it stays put but almost wants to fall back and mash your fingers. Then move it a little more so it is just past dead center and will comfortably stay in place. The manual says 1/8" Good luck measuring it! Now install your clutch rod from the mousetrap to the clutch lever arm. You want just a little slop in it so when the clutch is disengaged nothing is tight and the throwout bearing isn't being leaned on. Most important! Tighten everything up. Everything will work better. Hook up the cable and adjust the cable adjusting sleeve for about 1/2" slop at the lever. Try it out. Crank down (tighten) the mousetrap spring till the mousetrap sort of dies and will not firmly fall past dead center to its stop. At this point I feel the mousetrap spring is sort of equal to the clutch springs. Back it off till the clutch pulls the mousetrap past dead center, the bellcrank is seated on its stop, and your long thin clutch rod is 'floating.' When you adjust the spring make sure nuts are tight. Mine always works better during setup. Make sure you always have that 1/2" at the lever when adjusting. It should work now. Try kicking the bike over with the clutch disengaged to see where it lets go. With the hand lever pulled in check out if the clutch arm is at 90 degrees to the bike. This sounds like a lot, it isn't.

Ripley/Fla
Ex-member
Posts: 103
Joined: Wed Nov 21, 2007 1:27 am

Re: Mouse trap adjustment

#6

Post by Ripley/Fla » Thu Jul 09, 2009 4:52 am

You want a little slop when the clutch is ENGAGED . . .

61FLHPan
Posts: 64
Joined: Wed Apr 08, 2009 11:25 pm
Bikes: 1961FlHPan 73flh@1983lowrider
Location: Langhorne Pa.
Contact:

Re: Mouse trap adjustment

#7

Post by 61FLHPan » Thu Jul 09, 2009 1:20 pm

I was reading what you were say about adjusting mousetrap I have mine adjusted but it does not spring like a mousetrap it works I have about 1/8in. play at thelever my cable is only screw in to the trap about 4 threads I think I amdoing something wrong are there differt size cable the cable I got said it was for 61 what do they mean by saying 1/8 over center how do you tell if you got a stock spring the spring I GOT with the bike it was a basket case about 15years ago I bought it back to stock bike THANK YOU

doug_heisel
Posts: 156
Joined: Tue Jun 09, 2009 4:45 am
Bikes: 1952 FL
Location: Ottumwa Ia

Re: Mouse trap adjustment

#8

Post by doug_heisel » Thu Jul 09, 2009 3:59 pm

Thanks Ripley thats alot of help. well time to go see if I can do it.

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