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Problems with attachments solved: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=17433
6 posts • Page 1 of 1
I adjusted my mousetrap and clutch rod but not the clutch plate springs with the 3 nuts that hold tension on the clutch plates. Everything works great except when I pull up to a stop light and hold in on the clutch in first gear I can feel the clutch grabing a little like it is trying to engage. I can hold it back pretty easy with just my feet or brake but wonder if this is caused by the springs holding too much on the clutch plates. Should I back them off a little; I don't want it to slip any.
If the adjustment is tight enough to start the motor when it's hot without slipping, that's all you need. If the clutch is dragging you may grind going into first at the stoplight...Mike
I have found that 'grabby' clutch feeling can be caused by gummed up clutch friction plates or grooves worn in the clutch hub studs. The studs are replaceable, and the friction plates can be cleaned (I use gasoline! ) and roughed up with coarse sandpaper on a flat block.
That sounds like what I need to do. I am just about ready to pull the clutch and engine sprocket anyway because I get oil leaking from behind the engine sprocket and into the primary. I guess there is a seal behind there?
I don't see a sprocket shaft seal in my parts books until 1968 or 1969, but I'm not really a motor expert, and will let someone else give you a difinitive answer on that.
No seal on the motor shaft, they used an, "oil slinger" on the inside of the left case. It is supposed to keep the oil away as the shaft turns. For the most part they usually work ok. There are some after market seal conversions available, but originally just the slinger. As for the grabby clutch the 2 adjustments to check are the spring pressure and the release lever travel. The manual says the springs should be set starting at 31/32" and if you have to tighten them past 7/8" you probably need new plates. The 31/32" is not necessarily the final setting. Also with new plates 31/32" may be too tight. Try starting at 1" and if it slips tighten them one click at a time until the clutch holds when you kick it through and still fully releases when you pull the clutch. Also the 4-1/4" measurement from the housing to the chamfer on the release arm is not always an exact measurement either. Especially if you have any after market parts in the system. If the adjustments are all good check for sticky plates either due to being gummed up from old oil, or sticking on the fingers of the hub spool. They should slide easily without binding and should be free of grease and old oil. Its normal to have a small amount of oil in the primary from the chain oiler, unless you have it shut off to run a dry belt set up. Remember these things are old and those measurements were written when they were nice and new. Sometimes ya gotta fudge things a bit.