The Panhead & Flathead Site

Description: Drive Chain, any recommendations?

Post by 64duo on Apr 2, 2005, 5:43am

Time to replace what looks like a very well used drive chain on my 64 FLH. Any recommendations? I'll I can find is I need a 530? series chain, and my old one was 102 links.
Funny when you search for "harley chains" on places like ebay to search for some info, the search only lists two listings. All others are jap type bike chains, and there are hundereds of those, wonder why?
Seems like TSUBAKI makes a good chain, but tough to find the application that will correctly fit my 64.
Leads or advise?
Thanks in advance

Post by Roadside1 on Apr 2, 2005, 6:23am

Diamond 530, standard chain, 102 links... VT#19-0321
V-Twin catalog. Hope this helps ya.
Roadside

Post by Red55FL on Apr 2, 2005, 2:17pm

64duo
Try Jireh Cycles 1-877-681-0448. They have had better prices on most things that I have been pricing. I have ordered from them & so far they are easy to deal with. Shipped quickly.
Diamond 530/102 chain XDL, Part # 52-195
Diamond 530/102 chain Standard, Part # 52-43

Red

Post by flat38 on Apr 2, 2005, 5:07pm

Beware of Diamond chain. The links crack and fail. The Tsubaki is very good chain.

Post by kell on Apr 2, 2005, 5:39pm

Diamond has been around for-friggin-ever. This is the first I have heard they have a shoddy product. I think you could go with Diamond or Tsubaki. I got my Diamond chain from an outfit that supplies bearings and the like to industrial users and has an office here in Brooklyn, which was cheaper than buying from a motorcycle-oriented retail supplier. Because it was such a small order (one chain), I had to wait until they could add it to an order from one of their other customers.
I did have trouble getting the side plates to close on the pins of the master link, but when I called Diamond the guy I talked to was very responsive and even sent me two new master links for free.

Post by Red55FL on Apr 2, 2005, 7:06pm

I agree with Kell. I have been using Diamond chain on all types of equipment for over 30 years. Some of the equipment was severely abused and Diamond chain always performed better than I ever dreamed a chain should. Kell is also right that buying it from an industrial supply house would most likely be cheaper. I could have gone to a local oilfield supply house and bought a chain, but I was lazy and just ordered it on line.
I am sure that there are other quality chains on the market, & maybe even better than Diamond. But I am hardheaded & generally stick with parts than I trust.

Red

Post by flat38 on Apr 3, 2005, 3:07am

I generally have a "Buy American" attitude, and had always used Diamond chain, both the industrial and motorcycle O-ring type. After building a 93" pan from the ground up and using the Diamond O-ring, I had the chain break after only about 500 miles. I was sitting on the side of the road hand filing the pins to put in a repair link and get home when I noticed that the next link was cracked by both pins. Further inspection revealed that every link was cracked. Called the shop and had a new chain brought out and after a few hundred miles that one also showed cracked links. I have talked to several people since then who have had the same experience. I changed to Tsubaki, and had no more trouble and have continued to use it since.

Post by Mbskeam on Apr 3, 2005, 3:58am

hello,
I have run diamond, whitney and tsubaki industrial chain over the years , and they all do the same thing........S T R E T C H. I did have one chain crack a plate but that was because it was rubbing the inner primary, it got kinda warm and lost its heat treat?
now I just replace the chain instead of moving rear wheel
I run these chains hard.

64duo....I get this bulk chain thru my work. If you like I can get a price for you. Shipping is likely to cost more. LOL, I think it will go thru with the 3.85 box in the mail
mbskeam

Post by 64duo on Apr 3, 2005, 4:33am

mbskeam,
maybe I'm wrong. I am running a belt primary. So I am looking for low maintenance chain. I was actually looking at the TSUBAKI 530 Sigma (o-ring). Not cheap though, about $120. The bulk chain idea sounds cheaper. Still have time to figure this out, I'm just putting the parts all back on. (engine is in today) ;D
64duo

Post by Red55FL on Apr 3, 2005, 4:41am

Flat38
I have no experience w/O-Ring chains and opted for the Diamond XDL because I am to cheap to pay the extra for the O-Ring chain. Seams like I remember that guys having trouble with O-Ring chains back in my younger days, years ago. If I have cracking trouble with the Diamond, I will try a Tsubaki.

Mbskeam
Many years ago I rode a Honda 750 (still have it in pieces) that I ran the piss out of all of the time and drag raced it on the weekends. I stretched the hell out of chains. If stretching becomes a problem with my panhead, I will most likely do the same as you are, use industrial chain & change it when it stretches to much.

Red

Post by kell on Apr 3, 2005, 5:52pm

I can entertain the idea that Diamond chain won't cut the mustard if you have a big-inch, high horsepower engine. Tsubaki for you all. I'll stick with Diamond on my old panhead.

P.S. A little food for thought:
Does a chain actually stretch, or does it get longer because of wear loosening the links?
If you lay the chain out flat and straight and can scrunch it up to the original length, it didn't actually stretch.

Post by Red55FL on Apr 3, 2005, 10:32pm

Kell
You are exactly right. The term "stretch" is actually wear on the pins and rollers. If you lay a used chain out on the floor and compress it to it's shortest length, then pull it out to it's maximum length it will be shorter than it was new by about the same as it will be longer than it was new. There is some actual stretch involved, but it is mostly wear. With the oilfield equipment that I have maintained, there are maximum limits set for the difference between compressed and extended. If when inspecting a chain the difference is beyond a certain measurement per link, you replace the chain. I would imagine that this dimension is listed on Diamonds web sight somewhere or can be obtained from one of their dealers. Here is the link to Diamond, I have not tried to find any information on it, but they do have a Tech section.
http://www.diamondchain.com/

Red

Post by flat38 on Apr 3, 2005, 11:36pm

I have found that while industrial chain works OK, the motorcycle 0-ring chain lasts much longer and does not need adjustment nearly as often. If you add up the price of the number of industrial chains you would have to buy during the life of a good motorcycle chain, the cost is about the same. Compare the size of the side plate on industrial chain to any motorcycle chain, 0-ring or not, and you will see that the cycle plates are much thicker. Internal construction is also different.

Post by Mbskeam on Apr 4, 2005, 5:37am

hello,

but if you look at some bikes they can not run a O-ring chain, as there is no room around the inner primary.this is the case for mine. but I have seen other bikes around the same year have room, go figure. I would run the thicker chain if I could, less maint. and mess.
The other thing about" motorcycle chain" is that there is a huge mark up on it.kinda like a 40.00 bearing from the dealer that you can get at the bearing house for 8.00 or less.
but I guess i'm just a cheap ass,so I've been told.
I agree that chain can be made diff. on the inside.
But they all come off the roll all the same, and just by calling it MC chain it should not cost 4 times that of bulk.
mbskeam

Post by King on Apr 4, 2005, 2:34pm

Hi All

I believe our Pans are not too compatible with O ring chains. O rings are too "fat". I think you can get by using one if your tranny gear is a 22 tooth but not if it is much larger. I run a 25 tooth and it's pretty tight even with the standard Diamond 530.

King

Post by 57pan on Apr 4, 2005, 6:14pm

This thread showed just in the nick of time. I was planning on ordering a new chain for "Mo" today. I am planning on ordering the Diamond XDL because the catalog says it has "oil impregnated bushings".

My question is: How often do you have to re-lube the XDL chain?

Another, more general question: What is the proper way to lube a chain? I feel like I'm wasting my time just spraying lube on the chain because that just gets lube on the outside surfaces of the chain where it gets flung off (all over my whitewalls) as soon as you start riding. Where you really need the lube is at the interface between the pin and bushing and it seems to me that very little, if any, lube is going to get in there just by spraying lube on the chain.

Post by Red55FL on Apr 4, 2005, 8:38pm

57Pan
Good questions, I was wondering the same things.
I ordered the XDL chain because I am too cheap to pay over twice the price for the O-Ring chain & I remember reading somewhere in a past thread & as King mentioned here, that the O-Ring chain would not work with the 25-tooth trans sprocket, which is what I will be running, but wanted something better than a standard chain.
I don't know if the XDL is any better or not, but am going to find out.
It would be nice to hear from some that have experience with it.

Red

Post by King on Apr 5, 2005, 3:27pm

The old drill was to wash ones chain in kerosene. Let it drip then blow it with air. Then put it in a pan covering it with 30 wt oil and heat it over a hot plate (not too hot your'e not frying chicken). Then let it stand for a while to allow the oil to soak in before installing.
Of course it still would sling oil all over the white walls.
But I think that the new speciality lubes soak into the chain about as well. I just spray it on and let it sit overnight.
Of course it slings oil (and graphite) all over your white walls.
However, dirty white walls separate the riders from the trailer queens. When I get fed up I clean them with Westley's Bleach White it does the job. But a word of caution, don't let it stand on your metal parts especially pollished aluminum or mag wheels it can etch them.

Good Rides

King

Post by 57pan on Apr 5, 2005, 6:04pm

Thanks King,

You're right about the Westley's - it's the only thing I have found that will clean the white walls.
Seems I have also heard of guys who use grease instead of the 30 wt oil. Heat it up till it becomes liquid then soak the chain in it until you think the liquified grease has worked its way into the bushings then wipe all the grease from the outside surfaces of the chain and let it set for a while before reinstalling. The theory being, I suppose, that once the grease becomes solid again that it will stay where it's supposed to better.
Interesting theory I guess, but I'm guessing it's still going to sling gunk all over the white walls.

Post by King on Apr 5, 2005, 6:58pm

Your'e right Dave. I remember doing the greese thing too.

King

Post by kell on Apr 6, 2005, 3:28am

Hand cleaner gets white sidewalls clean, if you have a little patience.