Transmisssion Seal Question

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doug_heisel
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Transmisssion Seal Question

#1

Post by doug_heisel » Thu Oct 15, 2009 2:44 pm

I'm changing the main drive gear seal on my transmission (52 Panhead) what does it mean when they say "Stake the transmission case into the notches provided in the outside portion of the oil seal". Also the drain plug on the trasmission is stripped can I just tap it to the next size up and find a plug to fit it or should I have a helix put in it? :?



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Re: Transmisssion Seal Question

#2

Post by Ohio-Rider » Thu Oct 15, 2009 3:26 pm

The term staking two parts together refers to using a small hardened punch to dimple the metal from one piece into the other. So at the locations of the notches in the seal face you want to use your punch and a small hammer. Place the punch where the O.D. of the seal and the I.D. of your case meet and just tap the punch hard enough make an indent into both pieces. That will keep the seal from backing out or rotating. Remember not to get to carried away because you may need to remove that seal again someday. Hope I explained that well enough for you Doug. -Steve

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Re: Transmisssion Seal Question

#3

Post by NightShift » Thu Oct 15, 2009 3:58 pm

Dear Doug,

You dont need to stake modern seals so don't punish the case. Use a glue like loctite if your worried about it.

'Spectful,

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Re: Transmisssion Seal Question

#4

Post by doug_heisel » Thu Oct 15, 2009 4:12 pm

Thanks alot. As always you guys are great. That also explains why the clymers says to use a scraper or something to remove the burs where it was staked before, or you might make the new seal leak. Hopefully I can get this done in time to get another ride in before The snow really starts flying. :D I went out one morning and seen slight flurries already :roll:

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Re: Transmisssion Seal Question

#5

Post by james » Thu Oct 15, 2009 6:37 pm

I agree with Mr. Spectfull. I would clean up any burrs from the previous install if there are any, use a small amount of sealer on the clean dry trans case area that accepts the seal and drive it in, carefully. Carefully and square. I always buy 2 seals in case I accidentially screw one up because I don't have the proper install tool.
Get yourself one of those new sealing nuts with the built in seal and O-ring used to tighten down the sprocket. I think their called "super nut" or something.
V-twin or Old Dude has them along with the trans seal kits.

jim

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Re: Transmisssion Seal Question

#6

Post by james » Thu Oct 15, 2009 6:38 pm

james wrote:I agree with Mr. Spectfull. I would clean up any burrs from the previous install if there are any, use a small amount of sealer on the clean dry trans case area that accepts the seal and drive it in, carefully. Carefully and square. I always buy 2 seals in case I accidentially screw one up because I don't have the proper install tool.
Get yourself one of those new sealing nuts with the built in seal and O-ring used to tighten down the sprocket. I think their called "super nut" or something.
V-twin or Old Dude has them along with the trans seal kits.

jim
Oh yea, helicoil.

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Re: Transmisssion Seal Question

#7

Post by doug_heisel » Thu Oct 15, 2009 10:48 pm

Thanks Jim I have a Guy about a 20 min drive from my house that carries all the odds and ends like seals and hardware for pans knucks and shoves he rides a pan himself If i screw this one up I'll go buy 2 more :) I'll see if he can put the helicoil in for me.

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Re: Transmisssion Seal Question

#8

Post by fourthgear » Fri Oct 16, 2009 10:14 pm

That seal is to be recessed a little , check the book ,I can not remember off the top of my head. Also you may not be able to get that set back with the new type seals if using the cork gasket behind it . If you had a leak there , are you sure it was just that seal , because a worn main shaft bushing on the main drive gear and or main shaft itself, will just keep leaking . The Super nut described above may help.
I no longer beat my seals on , a proper seal tool can be made at home with large washers & a piece of PVC ( or metal )pipe, Your clutch nut is used to turn it all in.

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Re: Transmisssion Seal Question

#9

Post by mbskeam » Sat Oct 17, 2009 2:35 am

.050 deep from the case edge.

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Re: Transmisssion Seal Question

#10

Post by doug_heisel » Sat Oct 17, 2009 3:32 pm

fourthgear wrote:That seal is to be recessed a little , check the book ,I can not remember off the top of my head. Also you may not be able to get that set back with the new type seals if using the cork gasket behind it . If you had a leak there , are you sure it was just that seal , because a worn main shaft bushing on the main drive gear and or main shaft itself, will just keep leaking . The Super nut described above may help.
I no longer beat my seals on , a proper seal tool can be made at home with large washers & a piece of PVC ( or metal )pipe, Your clutch nut is used to turn it all in.

I'm not sure it was leaking around the main shaft area at all. I know all the oil was draining out leaving a big mess under the bike So I pulled the tranny and decided since winter is coming on anyway now would be a good time to change all the seals. As I said earlier the drain plug just spins in the case. I think it might have been the culprit but why not change the seals while I'm at it. I really dont want to pull the tranny again because of something I was too lazy to do the first time. I'll make sure the seal is recessed .005 Thanks again for the info.

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Re: Transmisssion Seal Question

#11

Post by james » Fri Nov 06, 2009 3:39 am

Doug that's .050 not .005

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Re: Transmisssion Seal Question

#12

Post by doug_heisel » Fri Nov 06, 2009 4:17 pm

james wrote:Doug that's .050 not .005
Thanks james I got it all back together and was adjusting the clutch when fate stepped in. see my other post Transmission set back :(

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