Problems with attachments solved: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=17433

Belt drive installation and adjustment

Post Reply
mbskeam
Posts: 1004
Joined: Tue Mar 16, 2004 5:52 am
Location: Sultan, WASH
Contact:

Belt drive installation and adjustment

#1

Post by mbskeam » Sun Jan 08, 2006 3:12 pm

Description: Belt drive

Post by Mbskeam on Dec 21, 2004, 3:20am

hello,
take out tranny and cut the 4 slots in the tranny mount plate about 3/16 longer to the front of bike. this will let the tranny slide up till it hits plate mount bolts, then belt will fit on no problem. adjust to book set up. do check that the engine and tranny line up as this will make the belt track in the middle, its got to be or the belt will rub the edge away and make the belt go from 1.5"to much smaller in a hurry. you do have the bulls eye belt?, it has a mark that looks like a bulls eye. this belt is slightly longer than the non bulls eye.
mbskeam

Post by suicideshovel65 on Dec 21, 2004, 3:55am

I have a 3" belt that was on the bike when I bought it, and I was wondering about the use of a brace/plate between the engine and transmission. Does anyone use one of these plates, or can anyone comment on the benefits/hazards of using one or not?
Whilst it seems that the belt itself provides some cushioning, my bike is again leaking from the tranny mainshaft seal - not too long after the last replacement. I know this can point to a bent mainshaft, but could jolting gear changes or clumsy application of power (not that I would ever ride like that folks ;D...) without the use of a plate exacerbate the problem?

Cheers,

Simon

Post by panfreak on Dec 21, 2004, 6:44pm

Sorry I can't remember my pulley size, but I have a primo on my '58, and boy- was it a tight fit! Lotsa cursing but it did fit, I hear this is common.

Post by fourthgear on Dec 21, 2004, 6:45pm

suicideshovel65
Theres a newer seal for the main shaft , I think its called super seal or someting like that . I've used them and they seem to work good , but how old and used is your main shaft at the sealing area ? There used to be a shaft sleeve you could put over the shaft to make it a new seal area , but I'm not even sure they are available any more . They were a bitch to get on right but did work . You may want to check out that super seal , they sell them at any after market place . Hope someone here has more input cause there are some real good wrenches on this sight.

Post by Mbskeam on Dec 22, 2004, 2:00am

hello,
what pitch belt do you have? the 8MM belt is the one that has the bullseye. the way I under stand the belt diff is this,the standard 8 mm = .3149 x144 teeth =( 45.354 long), but on the bullseye it is 144 teeth x .3166(45.590 long) this is .0017 thou to each belt pitch, from peak to peak,and then you get around(45.590 long)I think the bullseye belt is about .250 longer over all.divide that by 144=.0017, as the belt and pulleys wrap the few thou of belt diff is not a problem.
8mm peak to peak =.314 non bullseye
8mm peak to peak =.316 bullseye
you can get these belts mail order for around 50.00 or a local shop will probably have this or can get them.
I do know that the gates dealer here said that these belts are only available to the belt drive company's, something about proprietary rights to harley or some kinda crap like that. but as we all know this is a after market part and never was stock
mbskeam

Post by suicideshovel65 on Dec 22, 2004, 2:52am

Hi fourthgear,

Need to take a closer look at the whole setup over the winter before I can really answer. Right now the bike's at a shop getting some work done, but I will check when I get it back in my hands.

Cheers,

S.

Post by fourthgear on Dec 23, 2004, 7:37pm

suicideshovel65

There is a Main shaft nut called DUO SEAL Main shaft nut you can get , I believe its made or distributed by CCI that has two seals in it that might help you too . I couldn't remember the name of it for my last post .You can find it @ Cycle Warehouse part # 15070, $ 13.43. They have a web sight to look at it and the other seal , I still think its called super seal has two sealing lips and could cover any worn shaft sealing area .
The shaft nut my be where you are leaking from. We used to have so many leak in the same place , this nut could be what the doc. ordered. Good luck.

Post by Mbskeam on Dec 24, 2004, 4:18am

hello,
yes I was wondering if that is what happened or if I was just having a relapse of mental instability. . I dont seem to recall starting a post and then going on to answer myself.
mbskeam

wait I think there here now......................do you hear them?
The voices , yes.... the ever growing
VOICES

Post by kell on Dec 24, 2004, 5:24am

Has anybody used the sealing nut mentioned by fourthgear?
here is the link http://cyclewarehouse.roadwarriorcatalog.com
I would really like to find out if this product stops a mainshaft leak because I replaced both spacer and seal on mine and it still leaks.

Post by Mbskeam on Dec 24, 2004, 5:35am

hello,
Kell.....I have this same nut on mine and it stopped all of the leaking that came from the stock style nut.
this is a good part to stop leaks. mine has 22,000 miles on it with no problems.
there also is a main seal that has 2 sealing lips on it, I think James makes this
mbskeam

Post by Billy on Dec 24, 2004, 6:22am

Kell-
I have used them to stop m.shaft leaks too. It works very well. Just lube the seals & O-ring before assembly, to avoid damaging O-ring or dual lipped seal.
I remember it being called the "SuperNut", must be a different maker. But looks like same deal..
Well worth the few bucks......

James was the 'originator' of the "SuperNut"
http://www.denniskirk.com has them, part # H27-004
But the price is higher @ $25.99
Anything from Dennis Kirk is overpriced.

Post by kell on Dec 24, 2004, 5:20pm

Guess I'll order the nut. A simple solution to those annoying streaks on my whitewall tire!

Post by 57pan on Dec 24, 2004, 6:51pm

Not sure that the super nut will help keep the rear whitewalls clean. I think that comes mostly from the lube getting slung off the rear chain. But the super nut does do a pretty good job of keeping the transmission from leaking.

Post by kell on Dec 26, 2004, 4:34pm

I have an open belt primary.
Yes I did lube the rear chain but I have made a round trip from New York City to central Vermont and done a lot of other riding since then and it is still flinging oil on the rear tire. How could a damn o-ring chain hold so much oil?
I started thinking the oil on the chain must come from the main seal leaking onto the sprocket.
It is just getting really annoying having all those ugly black streaks on the wide white sidewall.

Post by King on Dec 28, 2004, 6:08pm

Hi Kell

Be proud of those black streaks on the rear white wall. Thats how I tell the real bikes from the trailer queens. When i finally get fed up with them, the ole Westley's Ble-White cleans them off tout suite.

King

Post by 57pan on Dec 28, 2004, 6:13pm

Westley's is the only thing I have found that cleans the whitewalls. I used to think that Simple Green would clean just about anything, but it wouldn't even touch the gunk on the whitewalls.

Post by kell on Dec 28, 2004, 11:13pm

I'll keep an eye out for Westley's. I have used hand cleaner up til now, which works if you have patience and elbow grease.

Post by Pete on Dec 30, 2004, 1:42am

Westley' is indeed good but try to keep it off any aluminum (especially shiny buffed stuff). The sportster took an over spray that I missed cleaning right away and man was the lady pissed!!!

Post by 2manybikes on Dec 30, 2004, 6:45am

yep, it is a bit harsh on bare alunimun. specally polished
stuff

Post by fourthgear on Dec 30, 2004, 3:17pm

Since we are on belt drives , I have a no name system with a 28 t motor pully and a 45 t tranny pulley , the belt is a Gates HTD 30884 x 1 1/2 - 437 mc . The only markings I can find is on the back of the front pully ( 2U1) I have a couple of questions if anyone can help and I know this is the place to get it , any one know any thing about this belt drive ? Is this to weird of a set up on a 48 FL? AM I going to have the same problem as MBSKEAM ? Can I get replacement pullys for this set up ? I know I can get the belt , is it possable to have someone make a pully for it .As you can see I've been a chain rider all this time . This system cme with this set up and I don't want to go to a chain and I will get a new system if I have to . I guess I just want to know is this no name set up is worth keeping.

Post by caschnd1 on Dec 30, 2004, 3:48pm

fourthgear - I run a Primo 8mm (pitch), narrow belt on my 49FL. No modifications needed. Installed out of the box with no issues. As far as getting replacement pullies goes... I'm not sure. Haven't needed one but only have about 4000 miles on the bike since the belt was installed. I've put over 90,000 miles on another belt drive without needing to change pullies. I think the key is rubber against steel. Rubber takes the punishment without doing much damage to the steel (in my experience). Now if you get some foreign matter in there, that might be different. There is another thread on here about "venting" for belt drive. Also look at the threads that discuss what you can do with the oil mist from the crankcase vent tube. All good stuff.

Post by fourthgear on Jan 5, 2005, 2:33pm

caschnd1
I guess I didn't explain my self good enough ( normal) I am wondering about the ratio of the system . I remember a thread here some where that talked about it and they said the present ratio of 31x47 for a 11 mm belt was the only way to go or they would eat up belts I have a 28x45 and a 24 tooth final sprocket, is going to be good at highway speeds or bad or dosn't it matter? The reason I was asking about replacement parts is that I have a couple of nicks on the engine sprocket. Iguess I can clean them up enough to use it cause there are not that bad. Thanks for the info again , I wish we had this sight twenty years ago.

Post by caschnd1 on Jan 5, 2005, 3:39pm

I don't have any experience with 11mm primary drive belts so I really can't comment on the ideal pulley combination for longest belt life. From the perspective of highway driving though, the 31x47 is about 6% taller then the 28x45. That's not a huge difference. You should be able to play around with the final drive sprocket on your transmission to get the desired outcome. Probably easier to find a selection of final drive sprockets then it is to find various sizes of belt drive pullies.
Concerning the nicks on your pulley, I'd just clean up the sharp edges and then keep an eye on it. I pulled a rock into my belt drive once. Ruined the belt and nicked up the pulley. But after some clean up and a new belt there was never an issue.

Post by kell on Jan 6, 2005, 3:29am

RANT ALERT
This business about 31X47 as the only setup that won't eat belts -- I don't buy it. Some company rep said that in a phone conversation, it's bullshit. In fact, they make 31X47, they don't make anything else, and they don't want to make anything else or be bothered by people (us) that want something else besides 31X47. You can use a pulley with a different number of teeth, no problem -- they just don't make it, and they'll say whatever lame excuse comes to mind just to blow you off.

Post by King on Jan 6, 2005, 3:59pm

Kell

Amen!!! I whole heartedly join the rant. The manufacturers can make any size pulley they want and maybe they will if enough of us bitch at them.

I finally went back to a chain primary to get the highway performance I wanted. Using a 25 tooth motor sprocket and a 25 tooth tranny sprocket and the stock clutch/rear sprockets I now have an over all ratio of 3.02. The tallest you can go with the presently available belt drives (31/47) is around 3.10 using a 25 tooth tranny sprocket (the 26 tooth wouldn’t fit my bike). Of course the stock pans were designed for the pre-Interstate world and had an over all ratio of 3.73 which is great for around town and 2 lane blacktop.

The only way one could go taller with the present belt drives is to install a rear disk brake/sprocket set-up and lower the rear sprocket diameter. For example, a 48 tooth rear sprocket (with the 31/47 belt primary) will give an over all ratio of 3.05. But big $$ and hassles for not much gain.

Forthgear

With your present set-up (28/45 primary, 24/51 rear) you have an over all ratio of 3.14. Which is relatively “tall”. If you went to a 25 tooth tranny sprocket you would have 3.01, about what I have. With that over all ratio I theoretically make 73 mph @ 2800 rpm and using my “Tiny-Tach” to determine rpms that is about what I seem to be getting. If you could fit a 26 tooth sprocket you would get an over all of 2.90, way tall!
Jack posted a great “speed calculator” on this site a while back and http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/calc_gearratios.htm is another calculator to which will give you ratios in all four gears.

I wouldn’t worry about the nicks but be sure there is no way stones or other “FOD” can get into the primary. They can sure kill off a belt drive fast as Cashnd 1 experienced.

King

Post by fourthgear on Jan 11, 2005, 7:12pm

King
Thanks for the info , I will use this belt system and see how it goes . I'm still a few parts away to get on the road this year , just seems a long time when your rebuilding one of these from the frame up . $$$$$
The ratio sounds good to me . This is the first belt system I've ever used so I'm kinda dumb about it , but I think its the only way to go . Thanks again.

Post by Rammy on Jan 14, 2005, 1:27am

The seal nut is a great thing but oil also can leak from the other side of the sprocket around that little key in there between the inner seal ring and mainshaft. clean up good and use a dab of sillycon......



Jackson
Posts: 2
Joined: Sun Dec 27, 2009 12:06 pm
Bikes: 1962 FLH
Location: Pahoa Hawaii

Re: Belt drive installation and adjustment

#2

Post by Jackson » Sun Dec 27, 2009 10:34 pm

to fix oil leak from tranny main seal (especially a problem when running a primary belt drive) check mainshaft bearing behind seal. if there's too much play a new seal can't fix that. Change those rollers. remember if you're trying to take .002 of play out, use .001 o/s rollers. A bent main shaft can usually be spoted just whatching your clutch hub spin. or if hub is off use dail indicator as you carefully turn it using kicker arm (in gear) And as far as using a jocky shift arm attached to a rachet lid, the shift pattern needs to be reversed, 1st is forward the rest shift back. I've had several (suicide's) over the years, that have had the rachet pattern reversed. I have not done this myself. but I know there's a way. maybe some one could shed some light on this? Jackson

Canuck
Posts: 34
Joined: Mon Dec 21, 2009 1:28 pm
Bikes: FL

Re: Belt drive installation and adjustment

#3

Post by Canuck » Sun Feb 28, 2010 1:13 pm

mbskeam wrote:Description: Belt drive
Thanks for the tip on drilling out the 4 slots in the tranny plate. Works great. Just wanted to add that you may also want to drill a slot on the tranny bracket on the right hand bottom of the frame for the bolt. Thanks agian, also will help slack the tension on the belt.


Post by Mbskeam on Dec 21, 2004, 3:20am

hello,
take out tranny and cut the 4 slots in the tranny mount plate about 3/16 longer to the front of bike. this will let the tranny slide up till it hits plate mount bolts, then belt will fit on no problem. adjust to book set up. do check that the engine and tranny line up as this will make the belt track in the middle, its got to be or the belt will rub the edge away and make the belt go from 1.5"to much smaller in a hurry. you do have the bulls eye belt?, it has a mark that looks like a bulls eye. this belt is slightly longer than the non bulls eye.
mbskeam

Post by suicideshovel65 on Dec 21, 2004, 3:55am

I have a 3" belt that was on the bike when I bought it, and I was wondering about the use of a brace/plate between the engine and transmission. Does anyone use one of these plates, or can anyone comment on the benefits/hazards of using one or not?
Whilst it seems that the belt itself provides some cushioning, my bike is again leaking from the tranny mainshaft seal - not too long after the last replacement. I know this can point to a bent mainshaft, but could jolting gear changes or clumsy application of power (not that I would ever ride like that folks ;D...) without the use of a plate exacerbate the problem?

Cheers,

Simon

Post by panfreak on Dec 21, 2004, 6:44pm

Sorry I can't remember my pulley size, but I have a primo on my '58, and boy- was it a tight fit! Lotsa cursing but it did fit, I hear this is common.

Post by fourthgear on Dec 21, 2004, 6:45pm

suicideshovel65
Theres a newer seal for the main shaft , I think its called super seal or someting like that . I've used them and they seem to work good , but how old and used is your main shaft at the sealing area ? There used to be a shaft sleeve you could put over the shaft to make it a new seal area , but I'm not even sure they are available any more . They were a bitch to get on right but did work . You may want to check out that super seal , they sell them at any after market place . Hope someone here has more input cause there are some real good wrenches on this sight.

Post by Mbskeam on Dec 22, 2004, 2:00am

hello,
what pitch belt do you have? the 8MM belt is the one that has the bullseye. the way I under stand the belt diff is this,the standard 8 mm = .3149 x144 teeth =( 45.354 long), but on the bullseye it is 144 teeth x .3166(45.590 long) this is .0017 thou to each belt pitch, from peak to peak,and then you get around(45.590 long)I think the bullseye belt is about .250 longer over all.divide that by 144=.0017, as the belt and pulleys wrap the few thou of belt diff is not a problem.
8mm peak to peak =.314 non bullseye
8mm peak to peak =.316 bullseye
you can get these belts mail order for around 50.00 or a local shop will probably have this or can get them.
I do know that the gates dealer here said that these belts are only available to the belt drive company's, something about proprietary rights to harley or some kinda crap like that. but as we all know this is a after market part and never was stock
mbskeam

Post by suicideshovel65 on Dec 22, 2004, 2:52am

Hi fourthgear,

Need to take a closer look at the whole setup over the winter before I can really answer. Right now the bike's at a shop getting some work done, but I will check when I get it back in my hands.

Cheers,

S.

Post by fourthgear on Dec 23, 2004, 7:37pm

suicideshovel65

There is a Main shaft nut called DUO SEAL Main shaft nut you can get , I believe its made or distributed by CCI that has two seals in it that might help you too . I couldn't remember the name of it for my last post .You can find it @ Cycle Warehouse part # 15070, $ 13.43. They have a web sight to look at it and the other seal , I still think its called super seal has two sealing lips and could cover any worn shaft sealing area .
The shaft nut my be where you are leaking from. We used to have so many leak in the same place , this nut could be what the doc. ordered. Good luck.

Post by Mbskeam on Dec 24, 2004, 4:18am

hello,
yes I was wondering if that is what happened or if I was just having a relapse of mental instability. . I dont seem to recall starting a post and then going on to answer myself.
mbskeam

wait I think there here now......................do you hear them?
The voices , yes.... the ever growing
VOICES

Post by kell on Dec 24, 2004, 5:24am

Has anybody used the sealing nut mentioned by fourthgear?
here is the link http://cyclewarehouse.roadwarriorcatalog.com
I would really like to find out if this product stops a mainshaft leak because I replaced both spacer and seal on mine and it still leaks.

Post by Mbskeam on Dec 24, 2004, 5:35am

hello,
Kell.....I have this same nut on mine and it stopped all of the leaking that came from the stock style nut.
this is a good part to stop leaks. mine has 22,000 miles on it with no problems.
there also is a main seal that has 2 sealing lips on it, I think James makes this
mbskeam

Post by Billy on Dec 24, 2004, 6:22am

Kell-
I have used them to stop m.shaft leaks too. It works very well. Just lube the seals & O-ring before assembly, to avoid damaging O-ring or dual lipped seal.
I remember it being called the "SuperNut", must be a different maker. But looks like same deal..
Well worth the few bucks......

James was the 'originator' of the "SuperNut"
http://www.denniskirk.com has them, part # H27-004
But the price is higher @ $25.99
Anything from Dennis Kirk is overpriced.

Post by kell on Dec 24, 2004, 5:20pm

Guess I'll order the nut. A simple solution to those annoying streaks on my whitewall tire!

Post by 57pan on Dec 24, 2004, 6:51pm

Not sure that the super nut will help keep the rear whitewalls clean. I think that comes mostly from the lube getting slung off the rear chain. But the super nut does do a pretty good job of keeping the transmission from leaking.

Post by kell on Dec 26, 2004, 4:34pm

I have an open belt primary.
Yes I did lube the rear chain but I have made a round trip from New York City to central Vermont and done a lot of other riding since then and it is still flinging oil on the rear tire. How could a damn o-ring chain hold so much oil?
I started thinking the oil on the chain must come from the main seal leaking onto the sprocket.
It is just getting really annoying having all those ugly black streaks on the wide white sidewall.

Post by King on Dec 28, 2004, 6:08pm

Hi Kell

Be proud of those black streaks on the rear white wall. Thats how I tell the real bikes from the trailer queens. When i finally get fed up with them, the ole Westley's Ble-White cleans them off tout suite.

King

Post by 57pan on Dec 28, 2004, 6:13pm

Westley's is the only thing I have found that cleans the whitewalls. I used to think that Simple Green would clean just about anything, but it wouldn't even touch the gunk on the whitewalls.

Post by kell on Dec 28, 2004, 11:13pm

I'll keep an eye out for Westley's. I have used hand cleaner up til now, which works if you have patience and elbow grease.

Post by Pete on Dec 30, 2004, 1:42am

Westley' is indeed good but try to keep it off any aluminum (especially shiny buffed stuff). The sportster took an over spray that I missed cleaning right away and man was the lady pissed!!!

Post by 2manybikes on Dec 30, 2004, 6:45am

yep, it is a bit harsh on bare alunimun. specally polished
stuff

Post by fourthgear on Dec 30, 2004, 3:17pm

Since we are on belt drives , I have a no name system with a 28 t motor pully and a 45 t tranny pulley , the belt is a Gates HTD 30884 x 1 1/2 - 437 mc . The only markings I can find is on the back of the front pully ( 2U1) I have a couple of questions if anyone can help and I know this is the place to get it , any one know any thing about this belt drive ? Is this to weird of a set up on a 48 FL? AM I going to have the same problem as MBSKEAM ? Can I get replacement pullys for this set up ? I know I can get the belt , is it possable to have someone make a pully for it .As you can see I've been a chain rider all this time . This system cme with this set up and I don't want to go to a chain and I will get a new system if I have to . I guess I just want to know is this no name set up is worth keeping.

Post by caschnd1 on Dec 30, 2004, 3:48pm

fourthgear - I run a Primo 8mm (pitch), narrow belt on my 49FL. No modifications needed. Installed out of the box with no issues. As far as getting replacement pullies goes... I'm not sure. Haven't needed one but only have about 4000 miles on the bike since the belt was installed. I've put over 90,000 miles on another belt drive without needing to change pullies. I think the key is rubber against steel. Rubber takes the punishment without doing much damage to the steel (in my experience). Now if you get some foreign matter in there, that might be different. There is another thread on here about "venting" for belt drive. Also look at the threads that discuss what you can do with the oil mist from the crankcase vent tube. All good stuff.

Post by fourthgear on Jan 5, 2005, 2:33pm

caschnd1
I guess I didn't explain my self good enough ( normal) I am wondering about the ratio of the system . I remember a thread here some where that talked about it and they said the present ratio of 31x47 for a 11 mm belt was the only way to go or they would eat up belts I have a 28x45 and a 24 tooth final sprocket, is going to be good at highway speeds or bad or dosn't it matter? The reason I was asking about replacement parts is that I have a couple of nicks on the engine sprocket. Iguess I can clean them up enough to use it cause there are not that bad. Thanks for the info again , I wish we had this sight twenty years ago.

Post by caschnd1 on Jan 5, 2005, 3:39pm

I don't have any experience with 11mm primary drive belts so I really can't comment on the ideal pulley combination for longest belt life. From the perspective of highway driving though, the 31x47 is about 6% taller then the 28x45. That's not a huge difference. You should be able to play around with the final drive sprocket on your transmission to get the desired outcome. Probably easier to find a selection of final drive sprockets then it is to find various sizes of belt drive pullies.
Concerning the nicks on your pulley, I'd just clean up the sharp edges and then keep an eye on it. I pulled a rock into my belt drive once. Ruined the belt and nicked up the pulley. But after some clean up and a new belt there was never an issue.

Post by kell on Jan 6, 2005, 3:29am

RANT ALERT
This business about 31X47 as the only setup that won't eat belts -- I don't buy it. Some company rep said that in a phone conversation, it's bullshit. In fact, they make 31X47, they don't make anything else, and they don't want to make anything else or be bothered by people (us) that want something else besides 31X47. You can use a pulley with a different number of teeth, no problem -- they just don't make it, and they'll say whatever lame excuse comes to mind just to blow you off.

Post by King on Jan 6, 2005, 3:59pm

Kell

Amen!!! I whole heartedly join the rant. The manufacturers can make any size pulley they want and maybe they will if enough of us bitch at them.

I finally went back to a chain primary to get the highway performance I wanted. Using a 25 tooth motor sprocket and a 25 tooth tranny sprocket and the stock clutch/rear sprockets I now have an over all ratio of 3.02. The tallest you can go with the presently available belt drives (31/47) is around 3.10 using a 25 tooth tranny sprocket (the 26 tooth wouldn’t fit my bike). Of course the stock pans were designed for the pre-Interstate world and had an over all ratio of 3.73 which is great for around town and 2 lane blacktop.

The only way one could go taller with the present belt drives is to install a rear disk brake/sprocket set-up and lower the rear sprocket diameter. For example, a 48 tooth rear sprocket (with the 31/47 belt primary) will give an over all ratio of 3.05. But big $$ and hassles for not much gain.

Forthgear

With your present set-up (28/45 primary, 24/51 rear) you have an over all ratio of 3.14. Which is relatively “tall”. If you went to a 25 tooth tranny sprocket you would have 3.01, about what I have. With that over all ratio I theoretically make 73 mph @ 2800 rpm and using my “Tiny-Tach” to determine rpms that is about what I seem to be getting. If you could fit a 26 tooth sprocket you would get an over all of 2.90, way tall!
Jack posted a great “speed calculator” on this site a while back and http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/calc_gearratios.htm is another calculator to which will give you ratios in all four gears.

I wouldn’t worry about the nicks but be sure there is no way stones or other “FOD” can get into the primary. They can sure kill off a belt drive fast as Cashnd 1 experienced.

King

Post by fourthgear on Jan 11, 2005, 7:12pm

King
Thanks for the info , I will use this belt system and see how it goes . I'm still a few parts away to get on the road this year , just seems a long time when your rebuilding one of these from the frame up . $$$$$
The ratio sounds good to me . This is the first belt system I've ever used so I'm kinda dumb about it , but I think its the only way to go . Thanks again.

Post by Rammy on Jan 14, 2005, 1:27am

The seal nut is a great thing but oil also can leak from the other side of the sprocket around that little key in there between the inner seal ring and mainshaft. clean up good and use a dab of sillycon......

Post Reply

Return to “Chains & Belts”