Clutch Arm Adjustment

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King
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Clutch Arm Adjustment

#1

Post by King » Mon May 17, 2010 6:03 pm

Hi All

I have pretty much completed my conversion from hand shift/foot clutch to hand clutch (with mousetrap) /foot shift. All has gone well except for the clutch arm adjustment.

The manual states that there should be 4 1/4 inches between the rear of the ratchet drum and the front of the clutch arm at the point where the clutch rod from the mouse trap begins its pull. I have run the clutch rod adjuster screw all the way in and still lack about 3/4 inch from reaching the proper distance. This means I have about one inch of clutch rod end away from the clutch arm at the shortest adjustment of the clutch rod.

I thought at first that the hand clutch set-up used a longer clutch rod but looking through the parts book this does not seem to be the case. So what could be causing the problem? Perhaps worn-out throw-out bearing?

King



Hauula Pan
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Re: Clutch Arm Adjustment

#2

Post by Hauula Pan » Mon May 17, 2010 7:49 pm

King, I've run a mouse trap for 30 years and earlier on the book measurements were pretty close, but after changing out the arm and rod I've found I can no longer get the measurement they tell you to. This latest build I changed the arm and like you I can't even get close. It doesn't matter. Just set it as close as you can without bottoming out the screw and make sure you get full engagement & disengagement with the plates. Also you probably won't get the exact measurements at the mouse trap and cable either. Again set them as close as possible and then tweak them to work smoothly. I just make sure I get a good "over-center" at the trap and adjust the cable for the lightest possible pull I can achieve and still get full disengagement down at the hub. I have also found that due to the after market world you can end up with 3 different rod lengths so unless you have the original there can be a 1/16th to 1/8th inch difference there. There are some pretty in depth threads on this if you search the past posts. But bottom line is set it close and tweak it in and all will be fine.

King
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Re: Clutch Arm Adjustment

#3

Post by King » Mon May 17, 2010 8:11 pm

Many Thanks Hauula

I looked it up and like you said there are several lengths of rod out there ranging from 13 ¼ to 14 1/8. I’ll have to measure mine and see . I have figured out a bit of “alternative engineering” to get the rod to engage the arm and will see if it works (gets full disengagement).

I am still trying to figure out the mouse trap but it appears that it works in conjunction with the clutch springs and as long as there is not too much slack in the clutch rod from the bell crank (1/16 inch the book says) it will not spring ala its namesake. The “overcenter” appears to be the distance past the point where you feel the maximum spring extension when you push the bell crank stud to “arm” the beast. If I’m right on this then one should push it to maximum “overcenter” and the crank it back to about 1/16” with the adjusting screw.

Good to hear from another long time Pan rider I’ve had mine 37 years.

Can’t wait to get home and mess with it.

King

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Re: Clutch Arm Adjustment

#4

Post by Hauula Pan » Mon May 17, 2010 9:52 pm

Yep, the mouse trap, actually a booster, is just to help you get the initial pull started. You'll notice the lever is a bit hard to pull at first and once you have it pulled all the way you can very easily hold it down. On set up 1/16th - 1/8 inch over-center is about right. Again plenty of lee way to determine what your set up needs. You can feel it, with nothing connected to the bell crank, just the spring, as you push it toward the front of the bike the spring stretches and you'll feel the point it passes center and begins to compress again. You can kind of rock it there. Draw a mental line and then set it 1/16 to 1/8 inch past so it hits the stop screw. You want it just far enough to ensure a good over-center lock but not too far, as that will make your initial lever pull harder. Play around with it and your cable adj. and you'll see how it all changes. One more thing that probably won't work like the book says, is the book tells you when adjusting the cable back it off until the lever stays down when pulled, that probably ain't going to happen. Here again just adjust it to where you have some play as you just begin your pull and you can easily hold it down when pulled all the way. Once you have it working and take your 1st ride you'll notice that as you let it out it moves easily at 1st then becomes hard to hold, the same as when pulling it its hard at 1st then easy to hold. Its that middle movement where the spring is pulling back that's hard to overcome and takes a strong hand. But you'll get used to it. That's why shifts aren't very smooth, its more like disengaged and full engaged and you don't do much in the way of slowly letting it out like newer bikes. By the way they do make mouse trap eliminators, basically a bracket that mounts to the trans. and you run a long cable and modern clutch with more discs and weaker springs etc. They work fine, are easy to pull and your hand doesn't get sore. But don't look cool like the old trap does. Like I said you'll dial yours' in to suit your bike and the book is just a guide, your actual measurements will be different. And remember getting it to where you can actually slip the clutch will take a bit of trial & error. My 1952 is the 1st year with the trap. What year is yours'???

King
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Re: Clutch Arm Adjustment

#5

Post by King » Tue May 18, 2010 2:23 am

Hi Hauula

Mine is a 51 and I rode it hand shift for 36 years with very few problems. Then last Thanksgiving I tried to do a u turn on a slick dirt road, slipped my foot off the clutch and being thrown to the left cranked the wick and shot across the road into mud bank. No harm to the Pan but I messed up both shoulders bad, dislocation and two torn rotator cuff muscles in the left and three torn muscles in the right.

So a few of the bros suggested I do a foot shift conversion and the ol’lady bought into the idea so here we are. To be honest I guess my balance is not what it used to be so having the ability to put both feet on the ground will be a plus.

Many thanks for the help and I’ll let you know how it all turns out.

King

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Re: Clutch Arm Adjustment

#6

Post by Hauula Pan » Tue May 18, 2010 6:32 am

Hope you've healed up ok you'll need a good bit of strength to pull the clutch. Yeah being able to put both feet down is a huge plus. Love to see a pic of the bike. Check out my post on, "Overheating?" for a pic. of mine. Best of luck, old guys on old iron rule.

King
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Re: Clutch Arm Adjustment

#7

Post by King » Wed May 19, 2010 7:15 pm

Hauula

Congratulations on the trophies. Your ride definitely looks worthy of them. Getting a bike “unchopped” is a difficult but noble effort for which you are to be commended.

Well, I think I got the trap working pretty good. To take up the slack on the clutch rod I installed a spacer and then, following your advice, dinked around with the cable adjuster and the bellcrank screw. The result is that it pulls rather easily and appears to doing a complete disengage. I have a few electrical hurdles to overcome before the first test but I should get her started this weekend for a test.

I pulled out the clutch pushrod from the clutch/tranny and measured it. It is 13 5/8” so I think I will send off for a longer one in an attempt to get rid of the spacer. They run from 13 ¼” to 14 1/8”.

You are sure right, old dudes on old iron definitely rule. I proudly go down the road with a tee shirt that says “An Ancient Man on An Ancient Pan”. Attached is a photo of me and the bike.

All the Best

King
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1450
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Re: Clutch Arm Adjustment

#8

Post by 1450 » Wed May 19, 2010 9:31 pm

King wrote:Hauula

Congratulations on the trophies. Your ride definitely looks worthy of them. Getting a bike “unchopped” is a difficult but noble effort for which you are to be commended.

Well, I think I got the trap working pretty good. To take up the slack on the clutch rod I installed a spacer and then, following your advice, dinked around with the cable adjuster and the bellcrank screw. The result is that it pulls rather easily and appears to doing a complete disengage. I have a few electrical hurdles to overcome before the first test but I should get her started this weekend for a test.

I pulled out the clutch pushrod from the clutch/tranny and measured it. It is 13 5/8” so I think I will send off for a longer one in an attempt to get rid of the spacer. They run from 13 ¼” to 14 1/8”.

You are sure right, old dudes on old iron definitely rule. I proudly go down the road with a tee shirt that says “An Ancient Man on An Ancient Pan”. Attached is a photo of me and the bike.

All the Best

King
cool bike :D i"m going home after work and going for a ride.

Hauula Pan
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Re: Clutch Arm Adjustment

#9

Post by Hauula Pan » Thu May 20, 2010 3:28 am

King, Thanks for posting the picture, your bike is absolutely beautiful !!!!!!!! Been raining here all week, crazy for Mid-May in N. Calif. Supposed to go to an, "Antique Motorcycle Club Of America" show & swap meet on Sunday & sure hope it dries up. Anxious to see what all shows up. A friend has a nice old restored Velocette & another he's working on. Hope all works out with the conversion, I'm sure you'll like it once you get it dialed in. Again, Very impressed with your ride.

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