Clutch Adjustment

Transmission, clutch, chains and belts
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MikeL
Posts: 29
Joined: Fri Feb 18, 2011 2:45 pm
Bikes: 1952 FL
Location: Regina, SK

Clutch Adjustment

#1

Post by MikeL » Wed Apr 27, 2011 8:44 pm

My clutch on my 52 has become hard to pull and I am in the process of adjustment. I have followed the manual which is fairly straight forward except the 4-1/4" dimension from the foot shifter housing to the outside edge of the chamfer slot on lever 1. If I loosen off the actuating lever until it hits the oil tank I only have about 4-1/4" to 4-1/2" (where I am taking the measurement) and that doesnt make sense that the lever would have to move 3" or more to activate the clutch. I have an attached picture to confirm if I am taking the correct measurement. Or if there is something else I am missing feel free to comment. Thanks for any help. This is my first pan and my first post.
clutch.jpg
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steve_wood
Posts: 947
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Location: Belleville, Ontario, Canada

Re: Clutch Adjustment

#2

Post by steve_wood » Thu Apr 28, 2011 12:02 am

Mike:

Is it a hand or foot clutch?

If it's a hand clutch, maybe the problem is the cable or the mousetrap.

Can you try working those two areas before you change the settings in the clutch and at the clutch lever?

If you have to mess with the clutch lever, the bottom line is you want the clutch lever as far back as possible to give yourself as much travel as possible. BUT !!!! You can't put it so far back that the throw out bearing finger (inside the right side transmission cover) impacts the transmission cover when you release the clutch. The only way to determine this is to take off the cover and mark on the outside where the clutch lever is when the finger hits the cover on the inside.

Sorry, pretty hard to explain without a picture with lots of arrows and explanations. But if you take off the right cover you'll see what I mean.

But try the cable and mousetrap first. :)

MikeL
Posts: 29
Joined: Fri Feb 18, 2011 2:45 pm
Bikes: 1952 FL
Location: Regina, SK

Re: Clutch Adjustment

#3

Post by MikeL » Thu Apr 28, 2011 2:29 pm

Thanks Steve, you are correct it is a foot shift/hand clutch. I think I have figured out the dimension, now I just have to go back and ensure I am correct on the dead center line on the mousetrap, I know there is an explanation on here somewhere.

steve_wood
Posts: 947
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Location: Belleville, Ontario, Canada

Re: Clutch Adjustment

#4

Post by steve_wood » Thu Apr 28, 2011 4:09 pm

Ahhh, the famed "dead center" issue....

Honestly, the best way to go about it is to disconnect the linkage between the mousetrap and the clutch (AT THE CLUTCH), play with the mousetrap adjustment, and work the clutch lever while holding on to the linkage (simulating the pull of the clutch). This will give you a good feel for how the mousetrap works. Once you got it adjusted to the point where it seems to work okay (i.e. minimum hand squeeze), reconnect it to the clutch and adjust to match the spring strength in the clutch.

Three important notes:

- make sure the clutch springs are adjusted correctly (there's another current thread on "31/32 Measurement").
- when adjusting the mousetrap, be carefull. Make sure you're always pulling on the linkage (or keep it connected to the clutch). If there is no counter-active force, it will snap closed wicked fast and if your hand is in the way, it's gonna hurt.
- when adjusting the mousetrap, keep the locking nut backed off (for convenience). BUT, be aware that when you tighten the locking nut, it will change the dynamics of the spring force!! You will have to make additional (but minor) adjustments to make sure it works properly when the locking nut is tightened.

Hope this helps !

Bosheff
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Location: Michigan

Re: Clutch Adjustment

#5

Post by Bosheff » Thu Apr 28, 2011 5:13 pm

Make sure you have the correct lenght pushrod....bosheff

PanPal
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58 FL
76 FLH All Original
Location: Maryland

Re: Clutch Adjustment

#6

Post by PanPal » Fri Apr 29, 2011 5:46 pm

If you do disconnect the linkage while adjusting the mouse trap. Be carefull! They snap to the engaged position and can damage fins on your head in front of the sparkplug.

MikeL
Posts: 29
Joined: Fri Feb 18, 2011 2:45 pm
Bikes: 1952 FL
Location: Regina, SK

Re: Clutch Adjustment

#7

Post by MikeL » Sat Apr 30, 2011 1:32 am

Thanks for all of the advice. I set everything as per the manual and took it for a ride and it seems to be a lot easier to pull in the clutch lever. One question I have is, is a minimal amount of creep acceptable? If I pull the clutch in and rev up a little it will want to creep ahead. It goes into first gear fine and shifts okay, but I am just wondering if this is typical or if I can tweak my mouse trap settings a little to eliminate this or anything else. Any thoughts?

jdpan
Posts: 459
Joined: Tue Sep 08, 2009 2:20 am
Bikes: 1952 Custom swingarm panhead
Location: Austin Tx.

Re: Clutch Adjustment

#8

Post by jdpan » Sat Apr 30, 2011 1:43 am

I'd say no, it shouldn't creep at all.... Try tightening up the rod a few turns to disengage the clutch a little more. Creeping like that will only wear out the clutches quicker.

MikeL
Posts: 29
Joined: Fri Feb 18, 2011 2:45 pm
Bikes: 1952 FL
Location: Regina, SK

Re: Clutch Adjustment

#9

Post by MikeL » Sat Apr 30, 2011 6:37 am

Thanks for the reply. Are you talking about the push rod or the clutch lever rod?

Bosheff
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Location: Michigan

Re: Clutch Adjustment

#10

Post by Bosheff » Sat Apr 30, 2011 8:14 am

Keep in mind that there should be a small gap between the clutch pushrod and the adjuster screw in the pressure plate. You don't want them tight against each other....bosheff

jdpan
Posts: 459
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Bikes: 1952 Custom swingarm panhead
Location: Austin Tx.

Re: Clutch Adjustment

#11

Post by jdpan » Sat Apr 30, 2011 6:57 pm

MikeL wrote:Thanks for the reply. Are you talking about the push rod or the clutch lever rod?
The rod going from the clutch lever to the mousetrap..

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