more clutch issues

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badbird
Posts: 28
Joined: Tue Mar 15, 2011 5:32 pm
Bikes: 1960 duoglide,
1971 Triumph Boneville
2012 Norton comando 961 SE number 190 of 200 in the world
Location: UK Essex

more clutch issues

#1

Post by badbird » Fri May 06, 2011 9:00 pm

ok the only instructions i can find show a 3 adjuster clutch
the pic shows 3 friction and 3 steel discs and a spring disc?

my clutch has 5 adjusters 5 friction 4 steel and no spring disc whatever that is, is this another bodge?

back to the mousetrap issue having got the hang of what it is and how it works i can see the problem,
the 10 springs will not exert enough presure to overcome the mousetrap spring even with it adjusted to its lightest position without going into coilbind when the clutch is operated, and limiting the movement of the clutch arm because of this,
iv ordered some origional springs from a local dealer i hoper that is the last of my problems, although he said i should bin the clutch and said early evo clutches work with a modification and were a lot better,

i will get this thing working... his oppinion is they always drag you can never get neutral unless your rolling?


Graham



Lowbikemike
Posts: 161
Joined: Thu May 07, 2009 3:49 am
Bikes: 1962 FL
1987 FXSTC
1995 FLHR
Location: Columbia, IL

Re: more clutch issues

#2

Post by Lowbikemike » Sat May 07, 2011 12:11 am

The 5 friction disk, 4 floaters would indicate a '68 and later clutch setup. They also didn't have the wave plate. The 5 fingers would also indicate the clutch drum was changed. The later style to my knowledge didn't use the mousetrap, might be part of the problem, maybe not, hopefully someone with more experience with mousetraps will chime in.

Bosheff
Posts: 1215
Joined: Fri Jul 03, 2009 8:23 pm
Bikes: 65 FLH 82 FLH
Location: Michigan

Re: more clutch issues

#3

Post by Bosheff » Sat May 07, 2011 6:01 am

Keep in mind that the mousetrap and the clutch itself, are two seperate entities that work together. If one of the two is not functioning correctly, is not adjusted correctly, or has worn or broken components it's gonna be damn near impossible to ever get them to work as a unit the way they were designed to. I have never had any luck with stock H-D fibers. I prefer the early Barnetts (1970's) (wet or dry). The stock H-D fibers seem to swell when hot and then they start draggin. Let em cool and things are fine again. I say this because you can adjust them cold and life is good til the get hot. This is what in my opinion causes them to drag which makes finding nuetral difficult unless yer rollin. Early Evo clutches run in an oil bath (sealed aluminum primaries) and won't work in a pan clutch basket....bosheff

hplhd
Posts: 603
Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 7:16 pm
Bikes: 1998 heritage springer
Location: indiana, usa

Re: more clutch issues

#4

Post by hplhd » Sat May 07, 2011 4:00 pm

if the bike is stock i guess i wouldnt recomend it but if not and with that clutch i'd put on a mouse trap eliminator bracket and cable and be done wid it. that is an option.

es225
Posts: 45
Joined: Thu Nov 30, 2006 11:56 am
Bikes: 1943 WLC
1958 FL
Location: Gooi, The Netherlands

Re: more clutch issues

#5

Post by es225 » Sun May 08, 2011 10:33 am

Pre-1968 clutch: three friction plates plus half a cushion plates makes 3,5 plates; three steel plates. Strong springs required for sufficient torque capacity. Originally intended for foot lever operation, hand lever operation required assistance from mouse trap.
Per 1968: five (thinner, pt nr 37930-68) friction plates, no cushion plate, five steel plates. More square inches friction surface, so weaker springs (pt nr 38075-68) could be installed for the same torque capacity. No need for mouse trap hand lever assistance any more!
In short: use the mouse trap only with the stronger springs, three full friction plates and four steel plates combination. The later weaker springs will not be able to cope with the strong spring in the mouse trap.
JW

badbird
Posts: 28
Joined: Tue Mar 15, 2011 5:32 pm
Bikes: 1960 duoglide,
1971 Triumph Boneville
2012 Norton comando 961 SE number 190 of 200 in the world
Location: UK Essex

Re: more clutch issues

#6

Post by badbird » Sun May 08, 2011 3:26 pm

es225 wrote:Pre-1968 clutch: three friction plates plus half a cushion plates makes 3,5 plates; three steel plates. Strong springs required for sufficient torque capacity. Originally intended for foot lever operation, hand lever operation required assistance from mouse trap.
Per 1968: five (thinner, pt nr 37930-68) friction plates, no cushion plate, five steel plates. More square inches friction surface, so weaker springs (pt nr 38075-68) could be installed for the same torque capacity. No need for mouse trap hand lever assistance any more!
In short: use the mouse trap only with the stronger springs, three full friction plates and four steel plates combination. The later weaker springs will not be able to cope with the strong spring in the mouse trap.
JW
ok then its all plain,
however i managed to get it sorted,
I used 5 springs origionaly from a Triumph 3 spring clutch (unit 650,the pre unit stuff has 4 springs similar to the lightweight 5 spring harley clutch) which are way stiffer and 5 of the weak springs, Now i can use the mousetrap with this clutch and put some tension on the mousetrap spring so everything works well and the hand lever is acceptable, it dont drag, I can get neutral easily (at least while its cold)
and most of all iv learnt something

thanks for the help info and advice

Graham
so at last iv got something that works and keeping it looking somewhere near stock,

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