4 Speed trannie case differences??

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George Greer
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4 Speed trannie case differences??

#1

Post by George Greer » Sun Sep 04, 2011 8:12 am

Hi all...

According to my 1958 to 1968 Electra-Glide/Duo-Glide parts manual, there were two different transmission cases.

One was part number 34700-36 Transmission Housing, 41 t0 64- FL, FLH

The other one was part number 34700-65, 65 to * - FL, FLH

What are the differences betweed the cases? And could one of the later cases be used on earlier frames?


Thanks,

George



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Re: 4 Speed trannie case differences??

#2

Post by hplhd » Sun Sep 04, 2011 9:56 am

george the most obvios dif is the 65 and later case had those ears to bolt the inner primary to. there mite be inside difrncs im not aware.

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Re: 4 Speed trannie case differences??

#3

Post by Sir_Rat » Sun Sep 04, 2011 9:57 am

George, the -65 was the first year electric start, which used a thick cast aluminum inner and outer primary cover. The -65 case had four ears on it to bolt up to the inner primary cover. The -36 had no such ears. You can run the -65 in your frame with out problems, but you would need a longer clutch pushrod and also you would need the early electric start outer primary with the rear floorboard tab on it as the electric start primary case sticks out to far to utilize the frame tab.

My opinion only , but I would only use the -65 if I was gonna go with electric start, besides that...a genuine -65 inner cover is getting to be kinda rare nowadays . Theres other reasons...im sure some one else will add them in.

Good Luck George...Mike

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Re: 4 Speed trannie case differences??

#4

Post by Tintin » Sun Sep 04, 2011 12:56 pm

Sir_Rat wrote:My opinion only , but I would only use the -65 if I was gonna go with electric start, ...
The main difference is that there is an additional mainshaft support bearing in the -65 design which is bitterly needed IMHO.

And on pre-65 primaries this opens up the possibility to run one of those: Image


Tim

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Re: 4 Speed trannie case differences??

#5

Post by RUBONE » Sun Sep 04, 2011 2:20 pm

A '65 case can easily be run with tin primaries, however there is no provision on the case for adjustment of the primary chain nor a lug for centering in the trans mounting plate so a custom adjuster must be used. When running the correct trans mainshaft to align with your '58 engine an outboard bearing will not fit, not enough room. for ease all around stick to a '64 and earlier set-up. But if you decide to run a '65 up, it is easy to do. I have used many over the years.
Robbie

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Re: 4 Speed trannie case differences??

#6

Post by George Greer » Sun Sep 04, 2011 3:46 pm

Robbie,

Thanks......I will keep looking for a early transmission,... or just a case IF I have to build one up.

Thanks to the time difference between Europe and US, I just missed out on a complete transmission.....ahhhhh

George

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Re: 4 Speed trannie case differences??

#7

Post by john HD » Sun Sep 04, 2011 4:37 pm

george,

don't miss another one.

http://www.snipeswipe.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

i have been using it for years with good results.

john

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Re: 4 Speed trannie case differences??

#8

Post by Bosheff » Mon Sep 05, 2011 3:46 pm

65 motor and tranny with bearing support and tin primaries with inner cut out to clear bearing support in a 57 rigid, no problem....bosheff

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Re: 4 Speed trannie case differences??

#9

Post by George Greer » Fri Sep 09, 2011 3:56 am

Ok,

Trying to upload correct size photos.

Need help in ID on this transmission.

George
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Re: 4 Speed trannie case differences??

#10

Post by RUBONE » Fri Sep 09, 2011 4:33 am

George,
That is a mid '50s trans. See the date code thread for the info on the 3-3 code used for approx 4 years for some unknown reason. The ratchet top is pre '59 also with no neutral light, kicker arm is '70s.
Robbie

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Re: 4 Speed trannie case differences??

#11

Post by George Greer » Fri Sep 09, 2011 8:34 am

Robbie,

Thanks!!

So I should not have a problem using this unit with my 58 frame and engine?

George

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Re: 4 Speed trannie case differences??

#12

Post by Bosheff » Fri Sep 09, 2011 8:47 am

It should bolt right in with no problems. Get rid of the kicker arm. You'll break yer ankel tryin to use that thing. Kicker arm first introduced in 1977 on the FXS I believe....bosheff

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Re: 4 Speed trannie case differences??

#13

Post by George Greer » Fri Sep 09, 2011 1:13 pm

Bosheff..

Thanks for the tip on the kicker arm, any suggestion as to which one to find?

Original one?

Next, the quest is on for inner and outer tin primary covers....and they don't have to be original........just cheap...

Then......rear fender, front end...dash panel..clutch basket..and the list goes on and on and on....

Thanks again to all for the answers!

George

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Re: 4 Speed trannie case differences??

#14

Post by CaptMike » Fri Sep 09, 2011 2:50 pm

Bosheff wrote:It should bolt right in with no problems. Get rid of the kicker arm. You'll break yer ankel tryin to use that thing. Kicker arm first introduced in 1977 on the FXS I believe....bosheff

Ding, Ding, Ding... Winner!

I bought a new FXE (Superglide) in 1977 and you are Correct on the kick start... From memory it doesn't work so well. FYI the 1977 FXE (1200 Superglide) cost $3640.00 new out the door in Columbia S.C..

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Re: 4 Speed trannie case differences??

#15

Post by Bosheff » Fri Sep 09, 2011 7:04 pm

There are many kicker arms available from the aftermarket with the extra heavy duty ones probably being the most popular. One thing to watch for in aftermarket unit is the length of the arm. These were marketed for "stroker" motors, theory being a long arm would give ya more leverage to get the engine to roll over. Maybe or maybe not so good in theory, but ya gotta make sure the peddle doesn't hit the ground while tryin to start the beast. Not so practicle if yer runnin a short front end, or yer hog doesn't lean far enough to the primary side when yer kickin. Stock genuine H-D kicker arms come in I think, 3 versions not counting the one piece units found prior to 1954. The main difference is in the offset to clear yer exhaust system. I prefer a stock, genuine piece. They fit the starter shaft much better (tighter) than most aftermarket units, and they don't wear as quickly on the peddle end. Also, it's safer to run some sort of rubber peddle (popsickle peddle is my suggestion) than an exposed steel or brass piece as your foot won't slip off the peddle when it's wet. This saves ya from mashing yer ankle....bosheff

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