Has Anyone Seen a Dist. Like this one

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03Roadking
Posts: 195
Joined: Wed May 04, 2005 4:17 pm

Has Anyone Seen a Dist. Like this one

#1

Post by 03Roadking » Wed May 04, 2005 4:49 pm

Hello All
I posted this message on the other board about an hour before it went down So I thought I would try here I am posting a link to a picture of a Dist. that is on my 62 Panhead and an update of what I have done in the past few days any and all suggestions are welcome
http://members.aol.com/qlcfas/pictures/DIST.jpg
I posted this just before the web site went down for maintenance So here is an up date.
I have tried to start the bike a dozen times all it will do is backfire thru the carb I am running a Bendix carb. It was rebuilt last week, I set it up as Billy suggested 2 1/4 turns on the air and adj. main and I pressure tested the intake twice with No leaks. I put the choke on twist the throttle three times and kick it twice with the key off then turn the key on, open the choke and kick it with the throttle half open, It back fires once then nothing for three or four kicks I pull the plugs, the front is a little gray, the back is clean, neither one is wet until I do this procedure for the fourth time then they are both wet and there is no back fire at all. Like I said in the first post I cannot time the bike because I can't find any marks on this dist. There is none on the dist base plate, the base or the top of the cam lobe. But when I pull the push rod cover on the front intake and bring the timing mark on the engine around to line it up I noticed that the points are 40% open meaning they are almost to the highest point on the dist cam lobe and if I twist the advance they are all the way open. From what I understand the plugs fire just as the points open so isn't this to far advanced???
I have tried to identify the dist by looking it up in J&P and Custom Chrome It looks like an after market single point one bolt hold down model that they both sell but the single bolt says its for a 1966 or later so could this be the wrong one??? and I don't know if this makes any difference but I have a revtech 4.5 ohm coil



Red55FL
Posts: 82
Joined: Fri Jan 14, 2005 3:35 am
Bikes: 1955 FL on a 54 frame
2012 Heritage Softail Classic
Location: Inola, Oklahoma

#2

Post by Red55FL » Thu May 05, 2005 3:37 am

03Roadking
Sounds like to me that the breaker (distributor) is not timed to the engine.
I am not a HD "expert", but have been accused of being an ?expert? in other mechanical fields. I have had a lot of folks fooled for a lot of years! (see ?expert? definition below). But this is how I got my 55 FL running.

This assumes that the point gap is set correctly & the plugs fire when the points are opened.
1. Pull the spark plugs and the timing plug.
2. Hold a finger over the front cylinder spark plug hole while you turn the engine over slowly until you feel the piston come up on the compression stroke. You will feel pressure from the spark plug hole.
3. Continue to slowly rotate the engine until the timing mark on the flywheel is just coming into view in the timing hole. Pay attention to the direction that the breaker cam is turning so you will know if the points are opening or closing.
4. With the breaker in the full advance position, the points should just be starting to open.
5. If the breaker housing can be rotated to the point that the points are just starting to open, then put the plugs on the plug wires, but don't screw them into the heads. Ground the plugs threads and turn on the switch.
6. Slowly turn the breaker housing in the opposite direction that the cam was turning to the point that the plugs fire. You may have to rock it back and forth several times to get it close.
7. Lock down the breaker housing hold down bolt. This will get the timing close enough to start the engine and time it with strobe timing tight.
8. If the breaker housing can't be rotated enough to get the points to just start to open, you will have to pull the breaker housing out of the engine and rotate the shaft a few teeth one way or the other. Then do steps 5, 6 & 7.

Very easy procedure, not easy to explain.

Red

Expert ? Ex is a has been & a spert is a drop in the bucket.

Billy
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#3

Post by Billy » Thu May 05, 2005 6:10 am

03- I wrote a lengthy reply to your question, "Before the crash"

Now I can't even sign in here ??

Billy
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#4

Post by Billy » Thu May 05, 2005 6:12 am

03-

Red has you covered well in his explaination...It's All Good..

I'm gone

03Roadking
Posts: 195
Joined: Wed May 04, 2005 4:17 pm

#5

Post by 03Roadking » Thu May 05, 2005 4:47 pm

Red
When you say the engine timing mark is just coming into view do you mean just to the right of center not like the book says if the timing hole was a clock face and the hands would be opointing to 12 and 6 You mean off to the right???
and when you say to turn the breaker housing back until the plugs fire you mean with the advance held fully open.
and last is this really for a 62 pan or is this for a 66 or later and it will just work???
Thank you for the help
Billy I had the same trouble you had when I went to post the first message it said I wasn't a member so I went thru the process of signing up to this board When I hit the sign up button it said the name was taken
Then I got an email that said thanks for joining ????? But now it works

Red55FL
Posts: 82
Joined: Fri Jan 14, 2005 3:35 am
Bikes: 1955 FL on a 54 frame
2012 Heritage Softail Classic
Location: Inola, Oklahoma

#6

Post by Red55FL » Fri May 06, 2005 3:38 am

03Roadking
First question - Yes, stop with the timing mark just to the right of center or slightly advanced from where it will be when properly timed.
Second question - Yes, the advance, whether manual or auto, should be in the full advance position. This is because these engines retard only to start, once the engine is started, it is advanced fully to run. The only timing mark on the flywheel is the advance timing mark.
As I stated, I am not a HD mechanic, I am a diesel mechanic by trade, an oilfield mechanic by practice. Which means that I have had to be able work on a wide variety of equipment during my career, mostly with no manual for the equipment. Jack of all trades, master of none.
When I bought my pan, it had not been able to be started since a new Mallory pointless ignition system was installed, which was several years before I bought it. I figured that the breaker was not properly timed to the engine & the procedure that I posted to you was how I figured out to time it & it worked great.
This will work on all years of these engines because they all timed at full advance.

Billy
I would be interested to read how you would have done it.

Red

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#7

Post by FlatHeadSix » Fri May 06, 2005 5:30 pm

RoadKing,
Follow Red's instructions, he's right on the money. Turn the engine in normal running direction until the mark just enters the window with the front cylinder on compression stroke. If the points are already open as you mentioned then the distributor is stabbed wrong, pull it out and re-stab it. I bought my pan years ago from a loser who couldn't start it after a rebuild, I moved the distributer two teeth back and its been fine ever since. The only thing I might add is that you're working with helical gears here so you may have to back it up further than you would imagine at first so that when it bottoms out the cam follower on the points is just starting to hit the ramp on the shaft (points just starting to open), remember to do all of this with the distributor in full advance.
good luck

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