Mallory unilite 556

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Eric
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Mallory unilite 556

#1

Post by Eric » Sun Oct 04, 2009 7:07 pm

Last weekend I was trying to fire up my new panhead. Plenty of gas and fire, but this weekend no fire at the plugs. How can I check to see if the distibutor is still ok? I wired the bike as a '54
and had some trouble with the wire to the distributor. For now I'm running right off the battery, could this be a prolem?
Thanks
Eric



Bigincher
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Re: Mallory unilite 556

#2

Post by Bigincher » Sun Oct 04, 2009 7:27 pm

Be sure the insulator on the circuit breaker wire stud is in good shape, and there is no short to the points base. Also, the 'active' portion of the points set has 'blade spring' portion with a slot it for engaging the stud to which the condensor also connects; be sure the 'blade spring' isn't angled down and contacting the points base, causing a short.

Eric
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Re: Mallory unilite 556

#3

Post by Eric » Sun Oct 04, 2009 8:26 pm

Thanks Bigincher
If I unplug the wires (3 of them) from the distributor what kind of reading should I get at the wires? Should there be zero continutity in the some areas as the motor is kicked over? And what kind of readings should come from the wire (pig taill)coming off the cables. Last weekend when I'd tried to crank it, the motor would actually fire when I touched the the positive off the battery to the positive side of the coil. Today is nothing.

lockdoc
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Re: Mallory unilite 556

#4

Post by lockdoc » Mon Oct 05, 2009 12:12 pm

Red wire goes to one side of the coil, green to the other. Brown to ground. 12 volts from ignition go to the red wire on coil. The Unilite in optical. If you are not getting spark as the sensor is passed over by the rotor or something else like a credit card you have a bad coil or unilte module. There isn't anything to check with it unplugged. Having it connected straight to the battery will make it so the bike will always start with no way to turn it off without disconnecting the 12 volts to the distributor. I have had to replace the coil and module after a short time in my setup. They are apparently easy to fry. Mine has been fine for a while now though. If you replace the module, look up an E-Spark module. Exact same thing but named different and half the cost.

Eric
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Re: Mallory unilite 556

#5

Post by Eric » Sun Oct 11, 2009 11:37 pm

I found my answer at the Mallory Knowledgebase and thought I'd pass it along to others. Thanks to all
Eric

Mallory Knowledgebase Question:
I installed your unilite distributor for 1936-69 Harley Davidson 2 yrs ago. Part # 556. I also installed at that time an accel low ohm coil.(3-4 ohm) I recently lost ignition spark, so I put in my points system for now. I checked the wiring and connections, and have narrowed it down to the module. Is there a module check I can do to verify this? If I connect 12v to the red and ground the brown, will the module light up? Can I send it back for repair or replacement? Thanks, Mark

Solution:
With the module connected to the coil and the key in the on position, read the voltage from the coil (-) where the green wire connects to ground. You should get 12 volts. If you do then block the optic's on the module so they can't see each other and the voltage at the copiul (_) should drop down to 2 volts or less. If it doesn't then the modul;e is bad and needs to be replaced. It is a P/N 605. Dennis

cory
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Re: Mallory unilite 556

#6

Post by cory » Mon Oct 12, 2009 10:12 pm

It's always a good idea to have a spare module with ya. You can order Mallory module p/n 6100M instead of the 605. The 605 is for a motorcycle and the 6100M is for an automotive distributer. It's the exact same module just different color and half the price! So now you can buy two of them for the price of one and have a spare.

Eric
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Re: Mallory unilite 556

#7

Post by Eric » Mon Oct 12, 2009 10:30 pm

Hey thanks alot Cory
Eric

Eric
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Re: Mallory unilite 556

#8

Post by Eric » Fri Oct 16, 2009 2:41 am

I got the new module today, and upon taking the old one out, which came with the motor, I looked at the numbers and it was a 6100M. One other question though. Do I need to run a ballister with this?
Thanks
Eric

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Re: Mallory unilite 556

#9

Post by 58flh » Mon Oct 01, 2012 1:49 pm

I know its an old topic but NO you do not have to run a Balast with it---RICHIE, Just remember --When running Electronic IG. you have to have 12-VOLTS!!!--It will run on 10-V, but you are Taxing not olny the IG. & making that Hall sensor hot!, But youe GENNY is overheating also!--With Electronic IG. you need a constant supply of 12-V or BETTER---Then you get trouble free operation!. Another thing to longevity is drilling a few small holes in the cover for COOL AIR to get into the Timer & keep the Sensor cool!.--Heat does kill them!--It may take a while ,but HEAT is a KILLER of the hall-sensor,-ANY Elect. Pick-up for that matter!--(2 1/8 holes placed in the rear of the cap where it goes unoticed, & make them 1-hole towards the front & 1 to the rear as far apart as you can get them while not being seen!--This will get that cool air right over the sensor when moving!--The hole in the rear can be drilled to 3/8s--It will pass more air & kill any whistle if you get it!--Dont put larger in the front!, As rain might enter & We all know how wet Dist. on cars act!--It will have the same effect!-(what I actualy have done for cust. is drilled the 1/8 hole & countersink it!--BE CAREFUL as cover is thin & you will have a BIG HOLE in a EYEBLINK!--just a touch --it helps trap the air going by & help direct a little more into the cap!)--Leave the 3/8s rear alone.---GOOD-LUCK---RICHIE 8)

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