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Magneto points glazing

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OckMock
Posts: 40
Joined: Mon Aug 17, 2009 5:56 pm
Bikes: 1950 panhead chopper
Location: Pennsylvania

Magneto points glazing

#1

Post by OckMock » Mon Nov 23, 2009 10:05 pm

Any of you running magnetos ever found a frequency of magneto points to glaze, causing a week spark or no spark condition?

Im finding that if the bike sits for any length of time (in some cases even overnight in relatively cool damp weather below 40degrees) Im having to de-glaze the points.

Anybody have a similar condition? If so, what did you do to prevent it, if anything?



steinauge
Posts: 521
Joined: Tue Feb 03, 2009 10:05 pm
Bikes: 1938U,1949FL,1961FL,1968XL,1979FL ,1958 FL, 1965 BMW,1975 Honda CB750

Re: Magneto points glazing

#2

Post by steinauge » Tue Nov 24, 2009 12:49 pm

IME that is a pretty common problem in mags.What I do about it is if the bike has been sitting any length of time is clean the points before trying to start it.The problem I believe occurs because there is no primary current to burn the crud layer off the points when the switch is turned on and the points are closed.

Kuda
Posts: 348
Joined: Tue Aug 01, 2006 5:41 pm
Location: Maryland

Re: Magneto points glazing

#3

Post by Kuda » Tue Nov 24, 2009 1:36 pm

OckMock wrote:Any of you running magnetos ever found a frequency of magneto points to glaze, causing a week spark or no spark condition?

Im finding that if the bike sits for any length of time (in some cases even overnight in relatively cool damp weather below 40degrees) Im having to de-glaze the points.

Anybody have a similar condition? If so, what did you do to prevent it, if anything?
Couple things to think about:

- Make sure there's NO moisture in the mag. They tend to collect condensation when you heat 'em up and shut 'em off when it's cold out. Worst case senario, you can use a *little* WD-40 to purge out the moisture (re-clean the points of course after) and leave the cap off overnight if you're parking it somewhere heated. If you're using a clear/colored cap, toss it. Those clear caps are a bit worse for sealing for some reason, no idea why. And always use the good cork cap seals too. If that doesn't work, do all the above then hit it with a hair dryer for a few minutes. NOT a heat gun, but a hair dryer. You can even shoot some electrical contact cleaner in there, then let it dry over night with the cap off. Re-lub the points in the morning of course...

-Make sure you've got no oil seal leaks anywhere. If there's motor oil getting in there, when it heats up it'll "fog" onto the points (uh...that's bad.)

-Be careful what you use to lube the breaker. I use dielectric grease if I don't have a tube of the OEM Morris stuff. And only use a tiny bit (or see above if you use too much).

And lastly,

-Check/replace your condenser. If it's starting to crap out (they're usually like a switch - good/bad, period) but rarely one will fail intermittently and burn the points out pre-maturely. Not very likely, but worth a shot as a last resort. Good luck,

-Kuda
'49 panchop

steinauge
Posts: 521
Joined: Tue Feb 03, 2009 10:05 pm
Bikes: 1938U,1949FL,1961FL,1968XL,1979FL ,1958 FL, 1965 BMW,1975 Honda CB750

Re: Magneto points glazing

#4

Post by steinauge » Tue Nov 24, 2009 4:10 pm

Kuda everything you state is correct. I work on a lot of mags and the #1 cause of them not working is dirty and incorrectly set points #2 is a grounded kill switch stud #3 is a weak condensor and #4 is a bad coil.Bearings are a distant 5th.Alnico magnets very rarely lose their magnetism,usually if this happens someone welded something on the bike with the mag installed and even that doesnt always do it. I have run mags in every flathead and sportster I have owned for the last 40 years with zero trouble.

OckMock
Posts: 40
Joined: Mon Aug 17, 2009 5:56 pm
Bikes: 1950 panhead chopper
Location: Pennsylvania

Re: Magneto points glazing

#5

Post by OckMock » Tue Nov 24, 2009 4:53 pm

Thanks guys...makes alot more sense to me now!

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