RUBONE wrote:Vitza,
Relax, it is all very straightforward. The line is the advance mark, the dot most likely the TDC mark. To get close you can use the line for everything. When it is in the middle of the hole, the narrow lobe of the points cam should be close to the fiber on the points. To advance your timer all you need to do is rotate the cam. No need to access the weights, the cam and weights are connected together. You can use anything that will work to rotate the cam. I use a pair of old pliers that I ground a large part of the center out of so that the end of the pliers are like tongs that clear the screw head on the timer but can grip the cam. With timing mark centered, the narrow lobe approaching the points, if you rotate the points cam (it will only go one direction from a stopped position) the points should just begin to open at full advance (fully rotated). Make sure your points are gapped correctly before you start all this or you are wasting your time. You can tell when the points break by several methods. A very basic one is with a cigarette paper in the closed points when the unit is fully advanced you should just be able to slide it out. At that point the timing is close enough to start.
When running and using a timing light you are looking for the line marking in the center of the hole at approx. 2500 RPM. It helps to have an assistant to gently and slowly move the timer until the line is in the right spot. Lock down the base retainer.
Don't run too long without moving air over the engine, a fan does fine.
Oil mist will blow everywhere, you will drop several items, your timing light will fail, but you will succeed in getting it right.
And ask if you need clarification on anything.
Robbie
robbie, you are the man!! thanks!!!
-couple more questions, whats the significance of the sideways "8" on the flywheel?
-so when rotating the cam, im using the narrow portion of the lobe for the points to begin to open? (i know you said this but i just wanted to be 100% sure)
-gap the points at 20thousandths or you recommend 22?
-as far as timing with a light, hook the light up to the front cylinder plug wire and rev to 2.5k, then advance/retard breaker til the line is in the middle of the hole w/ the light on it? (again, just to make sure i have the steps down correctly)
-and finally, what plug would you recommend i go with? a guy i took the bike to once said that the spark plug hole is shorter than other STD head's he's seen, is there a way i can measure the thread length to know what exact length plugs i need?