Glide Fork & Damper

Information on forks/springers/shocks
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VintageTwin
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Glide Fork & Damper

#1

Post by VintageTwin » Mon Oct 25, 2004 3:24 pm

Start at the bottom pix and work up. Pix are mostly in order. Most critical step is the careful fit and file, and fit, then file a little more... of the damper plate. The anchor plate doesn't slide down onto the lock pin very far, but the friction plates need to squash evenly with the damper, so the fit must be perfect - too loose on the pin and the handlebars will rack back and forth even with the damper tightened. Twist the damper spring counter-clockwise and it will fit securely down in the stem nut.
I put the handlebars on with the 3/8" loom out in front of the spark and throttle cables. There's a plastic cover that goes over these, but you need to use the top trees s/s/plate to hold the base of the rubber down, but, I like the look of the loom and cables and the black surface of the top tree. Buy about 2' or more of extra 3/8 woven conduit to run these horn and dimmer wires in. Get extra vinyl conduit or a length of shrink-tube for the rear taillight wires as they're inside the fender exposed to the elements.
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Last edited by Anonymous on Wed Feb 23, 2005 2:21 pm, edited 15 times in total.



VintageTwin
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#2

Post by VintageTwin » Mon Oct 25, 2004 3:26 pm

It's really just the outer i.d. radius that need enlarging. The file you see cuts quick, so file a little and see if if fits, then file some more. I used a flat file to dress the tips as the get sharp quick.
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Last edited by Anonymous on Mon Oct 25, 2004 8:32 pm, edited 2 times in total.

VintageTwin
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#3

Post by VintageTwin » Mon Oct 25, 2004 3:28 pm

When the stem nut is adjusted you will still need to tighten or loosen it fractionally in order to match the pin on the bottom plate with one of three holes provided. Mine was best located by loosening the stem nut slightly to allow the pin to drop.
Tap the steering head lock pin in with a soft hammer.
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Last edited by Anonymous on Mon Nov 01, 2004 2:30 am, edited 3 times in total.

VintageTwin
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#4

Post by VintageTwin » Mon Oct 25, 2004 3:30 pm

Put the top tree on and tighten the stem nut down enough to center the top tree with the stem. (Note that the stem and tree hole are not concentric. Tightening the stem nut first, will align them.) Then, tighten the upper bracket (big hex) bolts enough to bring the top tree and tube tops into contact. I use a 14" Crescent. Tighten the pinch bolts to 30 ft. lbs.
The adjusted and fully tightened fork (on mine) will fall with it's own weight to the right, but drags in mid-arc going towards the left stop. The shop floor slops at 1/8" per ft. and this may be the reason. No bind. Damper works great. You can short-order tube plug rubber seals from Kick-Start (616) 245-8991, M-F, 10-5 PM (EST).
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Last edited by Anonymous on Tue Feb 22, 2005 11:50 pm, edited 6 times in total.

VintageTwin
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#5

Post by VintageTwin » Mon Oct 25, 2004 3:32 pm

Front wheel blocked, supporting the front weight of machine. Pinch bolts tightened 30 ft.lbs. Install new tube seals.
Tap the cone nut with an 8oz. ball-peen and a large-tipped "beater" screwdriver, at opposite sides, until the cone nut about stops turning with moderate to heavier taps. Move the fork stop to stop. There should be noticable bind. Then, mark the position of the cone nut and fork cup with a felt pen and the forks pointed straight ahead. Keep the front wheel steady and use this mark to guage how much the nut gets loosened, until there is no bind and the forks will travel to it's it's right and left stop with just a nudge. 8)
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Last edited by Anonymous on Tue Feb 22, 2005 11:53 pm, edited 3 times in total.

VintageTwin
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Mis-Fitting between '59 and '60 Cups, Races & Bearings

#6

Post by VintageTwin » Thu Oct 28, 2004 3:56 pm

The inner bearing race sticks-up 5/64" higher than the cup.The contact surface of the cone seat nut makes contact with the race of the bearing. Tightening the cone nut compresses the bearing race downward and forces the bearings against the cup race causing bind. There needs to be sufficient pressure applied to the cone nut in order to initally "seat" the bearings in their cups. This tightening will cause bind. The '49-59 crenelated stem nut gets tightened with a piece of hex stock and should not cause the forks to bind. If so remove the top tree and start over. When the stem nut is fully tightened, then incremently turn the stem nut (C.C.W) to allow the bottom damper plate (with locator pin) to fit into one of the three holes provided in the top tree.
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Last edited by Anonymous on Mon Nov 01, 2004 3:07 am, edited 1 time in total.

VintageTwin
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Damper Spring

#7

Post by VintageTwin » Thu Oct 28, 2004 3:59 pm

Turn the damper spring (C.C.W) and it will fit down into the castellated '49-59 nut nicely. All kinds of neat, hidden, engineering can be discovered building a Big Twin.
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#8

Post by VintageTwin » Fri Oct 29, 2004 8:09 pm

The rusted-black frame is a '59 with original cups, and the (16) bearings. It's dust cover is in the same position as the '60-up with (19) bearings.
Because I (stoopidly) left the upper dust cover off the '59 cone nut, you can see the two contact surfaces of the bearing, which has the same 5/64" height (of the inner bearing race above) the '60 bearing has.
So Dick, we can now see these two different bearings both making contact with "E" and "F." I suppose that there was that "Parrot" wrench and the cone nut really needs to be tightened hard to push the inner race down more, forcing the bearings outward, and might require some big honkin' Channel-Locks soft-jawed w/ a rag? The back wheel is jacked up. Frame weight is on the front wheel, so turning the cone nut tighter is not restricted by the fork constantly wanting to drop down with gravity.
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Last edited by Anonymous on Tue Feb 22, 2005 11:58 pm, edited 3 times in total.

VintageTwin
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#9

Post by VintageTwin » Fri Oct 29, 2004 8:12 pm

Check out the '59 with no dust cover on the cone nut. Look at the height of the inner bearing races above the cup edges. Looks the same height doesn't it? About 5/64."
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VintageTwin
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#10

Post by VintageTwin » Sat Oct 30, 2004 4:58 pm

8) My attempts were finally successful. Use a big screwdriver and a ball peen on the cone seat nut to initally seat the bearings. Thanks Dick, JW.:idea: You must be able to create bind by tightening the cone nut. If not, you haven't seated the bearings. Both 49-59 cups and '60-up cups follow the same procedure.

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