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Fork Leak

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Fixman
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Fork Leak

#1

Post by Fixman » Wed Feb 13, 2008 7:50 pm

I have fork leak coming from the damper valve stud nut on the bottom of the left leg. We originally sealed this nut with silicon. Anyone have a better solution?

Kent



fourthgear
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#2

Post by fourthgear » Wed Feb 13, 2008 9:23 pm

I looked in some of the Knowledge base , because this came up before , but I didn't look at all of them .There was some thing about the stud sticking out too far for the nut and washer to tighten up far enough to seal , the flats would protrude past the lower leg & not let the nut /washer tighten on the seal correctly. . When I rebuilt mine a couple of years ago , I used the newer type of seal washers down there and have had no problems .They are available from JP's and others , mine were black and a little thicker than the OEM ones. Others may remember all of the fix, if thats what is your problem , you can inspect the stud to see if its protruding too far , after you take the nut& washer off.

I did not use any type of sealant down there .

Fixman
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#3

Post by Fixman » Wed Feb 13, 2008 9:56 pm

Thanks fourthgear. I also did a search of of the knowledge base without any results. I'll try again.

Kent

Panacea
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#4

Post by Panacea » Thu Feb 14, 2008 1:30 am

Kent, I think MBskeam was the one who posted the info about the stud not registering correctly in the base of the hole. There must be a flat on one side to keep the stud from turning on dissasembly. Mike

mbskeam
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#5

Post by mbskeam » Thu Feb 14, 2008 2:05 am

make sure the dampner stud shoulder does not stick out below the bottom of the sliders this will not let it seat fully and pull the.
stud/dampner assy tight.
I had to cut .025 off of the shoulder so it did not stick out.
also silicone on the gaskets faces will help, and I use 5/16ID copper crush washers then a steel washer, then a nylock....

no leaks many years later.......

mbskeam

Robert Luland
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#6

Post by Robert Luland » Thu Feb 14, 2008 4:17 am

First off never use any type of sealer on the bottom of the hydraulic unit. You have no way of cleaning it out of the lower leg down the line. The only way your going to have a leak down there is because of crud. I’m willing to bet that half these lower legs have five plus gaskets stuck down there. Just look down there with a flashlight. You aren’t going to see bright aluminum. I’m going to wander around the shop tomorrow and come up with a cleaning tool of types unless one of you have come up with one all ready. My first choice would be to rig up a piece of 1/8 pipeX 18” long pipe in the glass beder cabinet. If that surface inside is clean you won’t have a leak. Bob

mbskeam
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#7

Post by mbskeam » Thu Feb 14, 2008 4:50 am

I have to think that the slider was clean of old gaskets, it would just be part of doing it up the right way.....
there are other sealers that do not harden up, if silicone is not used.
as to gaskets, a loonnnggg screw driver is what I use to get them out.

part of the problem is the after market parts dont fit right,

ie: sliders bored to deep inside or out, and the lower dampner rod shoulder being to long....

mbskeam

VT

#8

Post by VT » Thu Feb 14, 2008 10:52 am

Stack about four of those paper damper gaskets below the damper bushing. What you're doing is making the damper stud retreat back up into the fork leg. (Retreat ye bastids....retreat!)
You don't want the stud shoulders sticking out past the knurled (slotted) washer that's driven into the leg. You want to have three or four threads of the damper stud sticking past the knurled washer, but that's all. So, before the nut can bottom-out on the shoulder of the stud, you want the nut pulling the damper bushing, paper washers (and damper assembly) all together into a damper-sandwich. (Yum-yum, pass the H-D fork oil please.)
Some of the floors of the slider legs are counter bored less or more than some, and if counter bored too much, then the damper stud is allowed to extend too far past the knurled washer.
At least that's what I found out when I went through the trials and tribs of V-Twin issued Glide forks. Mbskeam told me what he did, and I did what I did, and nobody's leak anymore. All you need are paper gaskets. Those thick, black ones. Not the thin ones that ship with the forks.
RTV silicone causes problems on old Harleys. Imo, there's no need for RTV except to cover a hole in the inner primary cover where the one crankcase nut enters. After the inner is installed, I use RTV to make a plug-cover that seals the nut and inner tin, to keep dirt out.

mbskeam
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#9

Post by mbskeam » Thu Feb 14, 2008 2:53 pm

there are other sealers that do not harden up, if silicone is not used.
it has its uses...LOL

hey,what happened to to old post that was done on this?
I looked for it and did not find it :(
must have gotten lost in the shuffle.........

mbskeam

Fixman
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#10

Post by Fixman » Thu Feb 14, 2008 3:01 pm

Thanks All. Mine are aftermarket dampers, and I have had the same experience with aftermarket stuff as everyone else. I'll take a look at the shoulder and go from there. If I have enough threads, I might try a couple of washers and Permatex non-hardening gasket goo. Just trying to solve the problem without a total disassembly. I usually have to take it apart anyway, but I think this is worth a try.

Kent

Cotten
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#11

Post by Cotten » Thu Feb 14, 2008 3:54 pm

After assembly with a single gasket, I turn the leg upside down and pour a non-hardening sealer (anything but sillycone) right over the nut and everything. The leg must remain upside down until it has completely dried, of course.

Cleanliness is everything.

The one time where this failed was with a set of CussinChrome, Ick legs that had casting porosities like cheese. The fluid actually seeped through the sides!

....Cotten[/b]

panhead
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#12

Post by panhead » Thu Feb 14, 2008 3:59 pm

Was this the article you're looking for?

http://www.hydra-glide.com/phpBB2/kb.ph ... icle&k=170

VT

#13

Post by VT » Thu Feb 14, 2008 4:05 pm

Just trying to solve the problem without a total disassembly.
What was it Popeye's spinach can use to say when he got thrown away?............."You'll be saw-reee"
You can get the black paper seals from Kick-Start M/C Parts (616) 245-8991. Tell them you want the "plumber's pack". It consists of (4) small paper (46111-48) seals and (4) large paper (46125-48) seals. This is enough seals for one slider. If both of your sliders leak, then get two "plumber's packs".
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Fixman
Posts: 142
Joined: Sun Apr 08, 2007 6:38 pm
Location: Charlottesville, VA

#14

Post by Fixman » Thu Feb 14, 2008 10:13 pm

mbskeam -- can you tell me where you got the 5/16" ID copper crush washers: I will try that first. Thanks

Kent

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