springer mounting question

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panfreak
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springer mounting question

#1

Post by panfreak » Mon Mar 28, 2011 10:29 pm

I have recently purchased a reproduction springer for my latest project and in mounting it this weekend came across an issue wherein the stem does not protrude beyond flush with the top clamp. Of course one of the few parts that didn't come with the "complete" front end was the stem nut, so I'm waiting for that to arrive now. I see in a pic that it has a narrower part that when threaded on the stem will recess down into the top clamp, but I expected to see at least some of the stem above? I'm wondering if this would be typical however there are a couple other factors I suspect may be contributing to my head scratching:
1. It is not an original rigid frame but a duoglide that has been hardtailed. Is the neck dimension the same as what would have been original, or are later frames slightly larger in this measurement?
2. I have timken bearings and wonder if the height is greater than original ball bearings/cups?

I can overcome this issue if need be when my stem nut arrives but wanted to know if what I'm experiencing is the norm, thank you for your patience.



Robert Luland
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Re: springer mounting question

#2

Post by Robert Luland » Tue Mar 29, 2011 12:46 am

Pictures man, pictures!

The timken cups are much higher.

RUBONE
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Re: springer mounting question

#3

Post by RUBONE » Tue Mar 29, 2011 1:30 am

Most of the repop springers I have seen have a built in lower race centering ring on them (the original H-D type was removable). If your lower Timken is sitting on top of the ring you have a problem as the stem wont be long enough to correctly assemble with the top nuts and no steering damper assembly will fit.
Robbie

Bosheff
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Re: springer mounting question

#4

Post by Bosheff » Tue Mar 29, 2011 9:03 am

I ran the set-up you are talkin bout with Timken bearins and cups but didn't have a problem with stem being to short to install the top nut. Like Rubone said, when going to a stock H-D dampner you will have to go to the old style cups and loose balll bearings. I am currently running a stock late 46 springer with a stock 57 rigid frame and a stock dampner. As far as I know BT frame necks from at least 37 through 1984 are of the same dimentions with the cups being different for a springer vs. a glide....bosheff

panfreak
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Re: springer mounting question

#5

Post by panfreak » Wed Mar 30, 2011 5:02 am

It's gotta be the timkens. See, when I got the springer as I said earlier it wasn't as complete as I had hoped, and was missing the stem nut and the crown nut. In searching through the old junk bin I came up with a crown nut alright, but it was for the old ball bearings. No problem says I, and into the lathe it goes for a little treatment underneath to allow it to sit on the timken and still have a skirt around it to ovelap the cup. Voila, happy days. Then back to reality when I see that I have the top clamp issue. We have a beer here called "Lucky" which, when I was still drinking, used to help me through moments like this. Well, it didn't actually HELP, but made it seem like fun instead of just a headache. I don't need much and now that I know the issue is with the height of my timken cups, I will move ahead with machining to make it work rather than wondering WTF? Thank you for your comments, all support and encouragement is appreciated!!
PS Fireball was a good substitute when Lucky was unavailable... I really miss the Fireball :lol:

Panacea
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Re: springer mounting question

#6

Post by Panacea » Wed Mar 30, 2011 5:31 am

Why not just use the ball bearings and cups? It's already been invented!

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