Solid Lifter Conv Kit?

Top End (cylinders and heads)
VT

Re: Solid Lifter Conv Kit?

#31

Post by VT » Mon Apr 27, 2009 5:12 am

Dave wanted to see the info again. I forgot to include the part number for the steel S&S push rods.
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My blocks were painted then honed 0.002" o.s. (V-Twin or J&P don't carry a 0.002" o.s. JIMS tappet. You need to get them through a dealer).
~ Parts and tappet guides honed to size - at http://stettsironhorseranch.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ~
Call them first before you buy anything that might be wrong. Don't email them.
You might want to paint yours last. My paint survived, but typical Brake Kleen® will dissolve H-D's high-temp paint.
solidcombomv7.jpg
This the best set up available for solid lifters. All American, from the tappet roller to the rocker end of the push rods.

1. S&S # 93-9059 Solid steel push rods (Big end matches the rocker arms.)
2. The JIMS adjustable tappets are listed and boxed as Big Axle. Maybe they'll have Big Axle, maybe not. When it comes to solid push rod tappets, you take whatever JIMS has in stock and still be ahead mechanically 25k miles down the road.

Here's the literature that ships with JIM tappets. JIMS® - Camarillo, Calif.
http://www.jimsusa.com/onlincat.html
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solidkitlu8.jpg
Use the no-return-hole gaskets shown here J&P # 15-0236 (set)
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58flh
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Re: Solid Lifter Conv Kit?

#32

Post by 58flh » Wed Sep 19, 2012 2:45 pm

I have always run solids in my 58!---24+yrs. now!--I change my oil every 2000 miles as it is a daily riden bike! CORK seals have never done me wrong!--I have seen the blue & black ones leak within a day of useage! -I dont have to ,but I put new corks in every 2yrs.! & the SOLIDS have been great!--(very important to get a FEEL for BOTH STEEL & ALUM. PUSHRODS!). THAT is KEY!---My steels have no up & down movement, but I can spin them with a flick of my finger!--- I have stopped using ALUM along time ago!--COLONY MAKE GARBAGE P-RODS!.---THE ADJs. are olny inserted into the rod 9/16s!--So is the rockerarm ball!. NOW this is the parts that have most stress put on them!--I would think you should insert the hardened ADJs. Atleast a inch & a half!--that goes for both ends!---I have half a shoebox of ADJ. & BALL-TOPS all from ALUM. COLONY rods!--I put them in steel rods! & all is fine!--As for ADJ. ALUM. P-rods, YOU want them TIGHT so when the rod & your fingers are clean of oil ,you should just be able to turn them with some grunt!. When the motor is up to temp. they spin freely as should be!. IF you do it enuff you can tell when a ADJ. is needed!--I can pickoff somebody elses bike (PAN) 20 feet away if it needs ADJ.-(as long as the motor is hot).----RICHIE--(LOVE SOLIDS) 8)

Chobber69
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Bikes: 48 Pan - Clone
Location: Ontario - Canada

Re: Solid Lifter Conv Kit?

#33

Post by Chobber69 » Thu Sep 20, 2012 7:03 pm

58flh - this thread is definitely a keeper; never to dated, to get feedback :-)

58flh
Posts: 3332
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Re: Solid Lifter Conv Kit?

#34

Post by 58flh » Fri Sep 21, 2012 1:10 pm

INDIANNUT!--I ran solids in my cage also!--it was a 66SS stroker ,it endes-up at 515CI. Crane cam .588, .610 lift. I broke it in with the mild grind!---To me it was mild -It still ran 11.20s on street rubber-After I put a 1000 miles on it-I pulled the cam lifters & checked as I pulled them ALL were RIGHT where I left them!. .012 for intakes & .015 for ex. Any way I gave this cam to a buddy who had a camaro wuth a 396 in it. He ran that cam for years!-NO TROUBLES!-I changed to a Crane R2_80,Roller Cam!. Lift was .740 in.-& .750 ex. Pistons were lowererd to 7to 1 comp. & I ran a GMC-671 huffer onit. I ran the blower at crank-speed for 500 miles to let the new rings seat. After I got a roadside revere kit from BDS, & that allowed the blower to be driven 10% under crank-speed, & if you were grudge matching a rival---It took all of 15min to overdrive the huffer to 35% faster then crankspeed!--I learned very fast to screw the rims to the tires 25,3/4 inch screws on eachside both rear wheels for a total of 100 screws into the beads of the tires!. The engine was dynoed 1-time using diff. jets I ran 2 holly 660 center squirters. The 750DBL.-pumpers were just to much for street use!--You had to rev the hell out of it at every light so the plugs wouldnt foulout. So the 660s were #1 as this was a grudge car street-driven. With the 660s the best HP output i got at 35% overdriven was 960 HP at the rear-tires at 6800RPM, At 10% under I got 562HP at 6200RPM. Tourque was 590ft.lbs. at 5000RPM at 10% under. Tourque at 35% over was 668ft.lbs. at 4700rpm.--This didnt last long as every 3rd run NEW SPRINGS & KEEPERS were needed to keep HP levels up!-& that was (900 a pop) in 1980!--So I had my fun with my first artificially aspirated motor!-Put together by myself. The car ran 9.90 index no problems!-I would have to let off & slow her up to run dial-in. My quickest pass ever was 9.48!. Then the Blower came off & I ran a single Dominater, I was able to get a 9.90 index for pro-stock class But I was REALLY REVING the HELL out of it!--And all this time the cam I used to break-in the stroker, was running in that Camaro for another 3yrs. till he sold it!-& it ran GREAT!--That being said todays cars wont get out of the county if you run a solid cam in them!--Metals have changed & theres no beef where the BEEFING-UP is needed!--its all about saving weight & gas milage!---This Country use to build GOOD CARS! BUT as of 1973 when the EPA stepped in & said no more lead lower octane gas,& pollution control devices--That was the END of AMERICAN CARS!.--NOW as far as our PANS are concerned SOLIDS are wonderful in them motors!--YES I do check my lash every time I change my oil!--& with HYD. you dont have to!, But I like to tinker & enjoy the performance I get from my solids. I think nobody is wrong or right ,its just preference!--And GUYS I DO APOLOGIZE for the long story!, Just felt like sharing some of my EXP. with cams & HP!---STAY UPRIGHT----RICHIE,--(58flh). 8)

panheadron
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Re: Solid Lifter Conv Kit?

#35

Post by panheadron » Sat Mar 15, 2014 1:38 am

Ok. Solid lifter conversion kits. Some kits have 4 small springs for the inserts. I believe they are to take up any slack, thus cushioning the valve train. Are the springs a good idea? Do they break after some time since they are constantly getting coil bound. Some members suggested tossing them in the trash. What do you think? Hopefully we get many opinions on this. Please reply Thanks!

RUBONE
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Re: Solid Lifter Conv Kit?

#36

Post by RUBONE » Sat Mar 15, 2014 3:23 am

The springs act as buffers. They are never "coilbound". They are redundant and if the pushrods are correctly adjusted do virtually nothing. Use them or not it doesn't matter.

Cotten
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Location: Central Illinois

Re: Solid Lifter Conv Kit?

#37

Post by Cotten » Sat Mar 15, 2014 11:45 am

The problem with the springs, Folks,..

...Is that they confuse many fellows when adjusting, by adding false "drag", often un-evenly, depending upon the variable quality of contact between the poorly made 'slugs', adjustors, and the lifter bores themselves.

Since they invariably come with aluminum pushrods, which must by nature be set tighter, this can lead to premature failure. The slug must be bottomed out upon the lifter, making the spring just useless inertia.

....Cotten

Cotten
Posts: 6788
Joined: Mon Aug 26, 2002 9:09 am
Location: Central Illinois

Re: Solid Lifter Conv Kit?

#38

Post by Cotten » Sat Mar 15, 2014 4:20 pm

More warnings, Folks,...

Here are examples of common slugs that show the poor quality by their wear patches:
SLUGWEAR.jpg
Two have very little, yet different contact, giving different "feel".
Note third from left only contacted upon the sharp outside edge, where it would certainly "bite".

Bottom line is that gimmicky assemblies are to be avoided.
When stock steel hydraulic rods are handy, COLONY's economical "slugs" (8204-4) work far better, but will never be as gentle upon the valvetrain as hydraulics.
When solids are necessary for a performance cam, S&S quality, at least, is prudent.

....Cotten
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