Chain Brands

51Hog
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#16

Post by 51Hog » Sat Jun 21, 2008 12:29 am

Does anyone have a rear chain and sprocket setup that is running completely true? Or does everyone have to set up tension at the tightest spot?



VintageTwin
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#17

Post by VintageTwin » Sat Jun 21, 2008 2:35 am

There's almost always a tight spot in the rear chain on rotation. Not when new, but once it's been run a few hundred miles. When my chain gets worn and I need to make an adjustment. I establish a 1/2 " of slack at the chains tightest spot, then tighten the axle sleeve nut. Check the slack without moving the chain, then tighten the axle nut. Then, check the chain free play again. 1/2" at the chains tightest spot is what's needed. Don't let it change. Lastly on a swing arm, tighten the anchor stud nut. Last Lastly, hand turn the axle adj. screws up to both axle bosses, no tighter than hand pressure. Hold the axle adj. screw's hex with a 7/16 wrench while you tighten the 1/2" nuts.
Note: If you let the axle adj. screw turn inward even the slightest bit, before you tighten the axle adj. nuts , it will force the axle backwards as soon as the machine's ridden, no matter how much you've tightened the axle nut.

51Hog
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#18

Post by 51Hog » Sat Jun 21, 2008 2:55 am

Thanks for the response VT.
I don't remember the tight loose syndrome in my younger years.
Could be I just didn't pay any attention.
I put the new Tsubaki chain on the 4000 mile sprockets and checked the tight loose. There was 1/2 " difference. I will replace the sprockets and chain at a later date to see what happens.

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#19

Post by VintageTwin » Sat Jun 21, 2008 3:54 am

If you take the chain off and spin the back wheel, do you see the sprocket run out out of round, or do the teeth spin evenly? You might ruin your chain if you roll with it like it is. Buy another rear drum from Kick-Start. Imo, the rear drum is one of the 10 items you need 2 of. One for use and one for repair. I
wish someone made a jig for people that wanted to re-drill rivet and dowel pin holes. The sprocket and dust ring have to be held in tight position. First, while the new holes are being drilled through the sandwich of dust ring, pre-drilled sprocket, and drum. Secondly then, when the first rivet is installed (dowel pins are also on '58 or 59-up I think). If your using an air riveter and a backing bar (which barrels the end of the rivet), the dust ring has to be held tight during this initial procedure, until the rivet across from it (at 6 o'clock) is installed.
I stopped research on the sprocket replacement process, but U.S. Air Tool was working through it with me. I got the stem of a few rivets to shape perfectly on a test hub using their rivet gun and backing bar, but it was a '63-up hub and those don't have a separate dust ring. So some of the procedures for that later hub are simpler than the dust ring drums and we never got to address that added issue. I believe had we gone further, it woud have involved a blind-bottom hollow drift or blind-bottom backing bar with the blind hole that would be the same size as the rivet or dowel pin being used. Like, you could take their backing bar and drill two shallow holes. One hole would be 1/8" for the dowel pin and the other hole for the rivet size or vice-versa. Not sure of the dowel and rivet diameters offhand, but the specific depth blind holes would barrel the shank of the rivet, as you held the cupped peener head against the round head of the rivet, and gave the gun one second of hammer action. Ber-r-i-t-. It's done.

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#20

Post by 51Hog » Sat Jun 21, 2008 4:12 am

The next time I put the bike on the lift, I will take the chain off and try it.
I will also check the drum for round where the sprocket rides.
The rear brake drags evenly when stopping so I don't expect the drum to be out of round. The rivet holes were still tight when I installed the rivets.

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Re: Chain Brands

#21

Post by 58flh » Sun Nov 17, 2013 3:01 pm

I know this POSTING is OLD!--But as far as chains & sprockets are concerened---Good-Luck trying to find a GOOD Chainwheel!,Sometimes you get lucky & the chainwheel is not to bad!--But I haven't seen any chainwheels that are CORRECT!.-(not including RACE DRIVES!).-I use Diamond on both Primary & Rear!. & I ADJ. accordingly,& continue to ADJ. for another 500-miles.The Diamonds Primary chains are good for 25,000-Miles!--(I know what your thinking--25,000K )IMPOSSIBLE!--& you are correct,I got that out of a Diamond With ADJ. Motor & trans with a stratedge every 4-500-miles.Depending how hard It was pushed!,Also I never had a Brown-or burnt-ruined primary chain as I Use my OILER!--CHAINS NEED OIL!--I was adding close to 3/4 of a QT. of oil every 4-500-miles!.If you rub a finger on your primary & it don't come out wet but a DIRTY BROWN,YOUR CHAIN is SHOT.GET a NEW set & OIL properly!,Also It oils your rear chain!--(VERY IMPORTANT!)-Rear chains are like magnets & pick up all the crap that is thrown up by your frontwheel as well as everybody elses that's on the Pike with you!---I use Diamond on the rear also!--NEVER use an O-RING chain!--They trap that crap inside the rollers & wear is way Faster or Premature would be the word I was looking for!.Yes you can get them to fit ,but overall there not anygood for our machines as we cant even get good COGS!.--A lot of guys shut the oilers off!--I don't care if you coat that rearchain with engine-oil everyday,It will FAIL PREMATURELY!.Theres a REASON HD PUT that OILER THERE/& made it ADJ.--CHAINS MUST BE IN OIL!& different riding terrain commands different OILING!-I tried a CC-RYDER primary chain 1-time cause $$$was very tight & $49 sounded good!--I had kept records & reported them from time to the 2nd & last time!--It was shot at 14K+!.Tranny all the way back & Oiling was HOW it should of been ,Almost 3/4 of a QT. 4-500-miles!--(JUNK STAY AWAY)& this was a year & a half ago!.If your worried about that dribble in your driveway ,a 12x12 or smaller cookie sheet placed under the weephole & all is fine!--It keeps Her yap shut & anybody elses who seem to have a oil drip fettish! :lol: .YOUR CHAINS MUST BE WET!,-If your rear chain is dry & just gets your hands dirty ITS NO GOOD!--SORRY for the WINDED POST, but this is how it is & this is what I do!---Any chain co. that says there pre-stretched are probably stretched!/But how much & for what?-swingframe or Rigid?.I know you have used these & you find yourself ADJ. the Primary followed by the rearchain.DIAMOND CLAIMS it ALSO!---GET yourself a new set of chains & get a old can of 1-gallon paint CLEAN IT,& Before dipping CLEAN the sticky-stuff off the new chain using CARB.-Cleaner!/I found its fast & works best.Once its clean put some 60wt. oil in the can & heat-it up on a hotplate or torch(propane),to 120/degrees & roll-up your new chain & dip it in there for 5-min. Then remove from heat source & let it cool naturaly.(you now have a properly lubed chain by this method!--It gets into all the places that NEED IT!--ROLLPINS for EX. & sideplates.-This IDEA is not MINE!--I read about it along time ago when my POP was still riding--+ he showed me how to do it.--I have heard that GUYS use regular wheel-bering grease & melt it to a liquid & drop the Primary chains in the cans!---It has been said that while in liquid form it penetrates all the rollers & Everything vital,They pull them while hot & let them drip-overnight,Then wipe the outside with clean shop-rags DONE!--30K+ on a primary chain using OILER ofcoarse!----CHAINS MUST BE WET WITH OIL!--Don't worry about the rear rim on the leftside looking grungy!--It can be cleaned very easily!---Just my 2 on the Drive-Chains!---Respecfully & hope I could help somebody out that's curious about Chain & COGS!----RICHIE 8)

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Re: Chain Brands

#22

Post by hydra74 » Sun Nov 17, 2013 10:26 pm

:lol:
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58flh
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Re: Chain Brands

#23

Post by 58flh » Mon Nov 18, 2013 11:57 am

YEP--That's the ticket! 8) ---RICHIE

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