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Why did this 58 FL get parked?

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PanPal
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Re: Why did this 58 FL get parked?

#136

Post by PanPal » Thu Mar 15, 2018 11:36 pm

The battery tray has been painted black. The battery tie downs needed modified to work. When they were installed, the battery wouldn’t fit in the oil tank. I checked in Palmers book and found the original tie down would have the rod welded on the opposite side of the bend on the flag. This one and the one I made to match had the rod mounted on the same side of the bend in the flag and when mounted the rods didn’t come up in the relieved area in the oil tank for the rods. A little bending the flag and twisting the rod ends to line up in the battery tray and everything lined up and is secure. I figured since I was this far and everything is getting checked, I better go ahead and service the neck bearings. I removed the lower screw holding my front terminal plate to the lower tree. Took off the friction tape holding the asphalt loom to the frame and removed the dampener assembly from the top tree. Then removed the handle bars with the tree and entire wire harness attached. Now I can work on replacing a few wires on a table. The oil tank, shocks, shock covers, tool box, and battery are now installed, I took the lower tree and bearings into work and cleaned everything up in the parts washer. Came home and greased it all up and reinstalled the lower tree. My Generator light socket got yanked out of the dash so I can work on this better on a bench also. I’ve now collected and assortment of fiber washers to make a new isolating ring for the light socket and dash. A little turning to the outside of the fiber washer and I should be able to recrimp things back the way they were. It’s not easy, but I did one this way on the last bike I went through like this. Did get back to finishing truing up the wheel I put together. I was pretty much done and trying to get a couple more thousandths out side to side when one inner spoke snapped. I took out 4 outer spoke that crossed over this one and replaced it then final trued the rim. I pulled out my best Eagle 100 white wall and after looking at it, I think it would be too lumpy to run, so I ordered a pair of Shinko 270 black wall tires. I have the other rim I’d like to use here at work today. I removed a tire from this rim last night and cleaned up the rust on the inside of the rim. This one has black spokes and has matching Patina for the bike. I’ve got to check inside the hub and service the rollers, I’m hopeful it looks good inside. The engine are bolted back together after doing more cleaning and removing as much of the Glyptol I could. They have been boiling in Dawn dish washing soap and water the last couple nights again. I’ll clean them up again and I’m ready to start cooking them in the oven next. Pulled the transmission out and on the bench. I have to swap ratchet lids due to some piss poor welding that was done. One of the long screws near the ratchet was a allen head screw that wouldn’t budge. I had to drill the head off then remove the screw when the lid was removed. Same issue when trying to get the dust cover off the ratchet assembly. Another allen head screw needed drilled. I’m down to the inside gear and shaft and it doesn’t want to come apart either. It’s been soaking the last couple days and I tried heating the inside gear hub but it hasn’t started to move yet. May be tonight. The gears inside the transmission were coated with a film a grease and they look pretty good from what I see. Very little side to side movement also. I had checked the oil tank for leaks with kerosene, so that kerosene is in a container on the workbench now. I soaked the tappet blocks and lifter rollers and threw in the timer plug and tappet oil screen and plug. I poured some in the transmission and have been turning it over and shifting the forks through gears. The fork tubes and legs have been assembled and I just go in the fork oil. I’ve cleaned up the vents in the caps and I’ll be filling them with fork oil tonight. Since they aren’t on the bike, I can check to make sure they each feel the same after they are filled.
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OLD WUN
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Re: Why did this 58 FL get parked?

#137

Post by OLD WUN » Fri Mar 16, 2018 5:52 am

Have followed your project from the beginning and find it a fascinating read. Feel lucky that my original paint 58 Pan is in good condition after the work I have seen you do.

PanPal
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Re: Why did this 58 FL get parked?

#138

Post by PanPal » Mon Mar 19, 2018 4:48 pm

The tires came in last week. The second wheel hub looked really good inside so I painted the inside of the second rim put the bands on and the tires are now mounted on the rims. I installed the rear wheel late last night but it has serious drag to it right now. I need to tighten the brake backing plate and axle down and check the brake adjusters. The forks have 7+ ounces of fork oil in them now and no leaks after several days. One fork didn’t seem to have any hydraulic dampening when compressing but dampened a little as it retracted. I added a little more fork oil and both forks feel the same now and dampen in both directions. The forks are hanging in the lower trees now. The fiber washer for the generator light socket needed the ID bored out and the OD turned down. With the help of some Jewelers magnifiers, I was able to roll over the lip on the back of the dash to capture the fiber washer in the dash base. Then I held the light socket in a small drill press vice, rested the base on the light socket and flared the light socket out. The light socket is nice and tight in the base again. The transmission lid gear and shaft came out with the proper punch on the shaft and the gear backed up with shims so it wasn’t springing in and out as I hit it with the punch. The new lid had been repaired so I sand blasted it after grinding down the welded area. It’s time to start putting the guts back in and timing this lid now. The terminal screws on the ignition switch are being soaked with Kroil. Time to start repairing a broken terminal and getting this switch into the unlocked position. Will be replacing the ground wire from battery to frame with a bigger gauge wire than what was running and get rid of the ugly blue ring connectors. Also going to replace the generator light socket positive wire and springs in both gen and oil light sockets. There is a ground wire from the headlight bracket that was attached to one of the cowbell screws that needs replaced, but I want to tie this to the dash mount screw so It’s not depending on ground running through the neck bearings. I was trying to trace some wires but when I pulled out my service manual, I realized I don’t have a 58 wire diagram. My book starts at 59. I was trying to get to manuals in the documentation section and knowledge base here, but it says I’m not authorized to view the files. It was a pretty nice day yesterday. Saw plenty of bikes and classic cars out and about, so I took a Wide Glide I’m storing for the winter out for a spin. I’d rather have footboards than pegs but it was nice to get my knees in the breeze.
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panhead
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Re: Why did this 58 FL get parked?

#139

Post by panhead » Mon Mar 19, 2018 5:12 pm

I was trying to get to manuals in the documentation section and knowledge base here, but it says I’m not authorized to view the files.
You couldn't download them?

PanPal
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Re: Why did this 58 FL get parked?

#140

Post by PanPal » Mon Mar 19, 2018 5:23 pm

I am able to view the files from my Computer today. For some reason, I was getting this message when trying to view them from my phone last weekend. No biggie, but I still can't find a 58 wire diagram other than one for spotlights and turn signals.

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Re: Why did this 58 FL get parked?

#141

Post by panhead » Mon Mar 19, 2018 5:25 pm


PanPal
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Re: Why did this 58 FL get parked?

#142

Post by PanPal » Mon Mar 19, 2018 6:21 pm

Thank you Panhead!

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Re: Why did this 58 FL get parked?

#143

Post by PanPal » Wed Mar 28, 2018 6:22 pm

The guts to the ratchet lid are now changed over to the new lid. The old lid casting was pretty butchered up and the ratchet components needed a good clean, polish, and lube service. It looked like dried ear wax inside the ratchet assembly. It is timed and shifts the drum up and down thru the gears well now and everything has a Lubriplate coating. I made a new ground wire out of heavy gauge wire, a new ground from the headlight rubber mounted bracket to the dash base bolt, repaired several wires from the dash plate back to the rear terminal board behind the coil. The rear terminal board was looking pretty beat up and someone wired two positive leads to the back outside of the terminal box and captured the wires between the insulator and the bolt head. Not the greatest idea nor correct, so I pulled all the wires and lined the terminal box with new fish paper. I had one stud inside that was slightly conductive to the box itself. A couple years ago I used gasket paper to reline one of these and the first time I attached the positive battery lead, it fried wires. It ended up being the gasket paper was conductive. (Who’d of thunk that?) I’ve been ohming out everything as I go on this one. I took out the ignition switch because it needs service and it has one terminal detached from the contact ring. This morning I picked up 2 brass 4-40 screws for .40 cents. I’m going to try to drill thru the hollow part of the rivet, thru the contact itself and tap the contact hole 4-40, then drill the rivet hollow side out with a # 32, or 33 drill bit for clearance and screw this back together. Then I will try to polish the contact side to its original shape and see if I can get this switch to work properly again. After disassembly, there are no brass tumblers in the key switch. Wondering if it would be easy to get a locksmith to set this up and give me a Briggs and Stratton key to match now that everything is apart? I hope this works because ignition switches seem to be getting pretty pricey and the aftermarket switches seem to be hit or miss. After the ring contactor is repaired, I’m considering soldering each rivet to the steel terminal plate to insure good contact. I’ve seen these old rivets get a bit loose and cause intermittent contact problems with the switch. Since the terminal box and ignition wires were all disconnected, I put the bars with front terminal plate back on and mounted the dash before I screwed up the insulation on these old wires. I’ve got red and green cloth covered wire, heat shrink tube, 3 different sizes of asphalt loom, flag and ring terminals, and friction tape out and using it to repair each section of wire and connection points one at a time. Solder heat shrink and test each one by one. It’s a bit overwhelming when you start, but after you get started, there’s not that much to it and it’s a good feeling when everything is secure and circuits are tested. Trying to troubleshoot later can suck. Forks are now installed in the trees. Time to put the front brake and wheel on to balance out the bike because without this weight its been teetering on plastic buckets and I can put the bike back up on the table and get back some floor space in my shop. I mounted the gas tanks to a jig I made years ago. This can be chucked in a big lathe at work so the tanks can be tumbled clean inside and checked for leaks. The oven I picked up has a different plug than my outlet, so I need to do a little exchange wiring from other equipment to get the cases cooked. Its been pretty chilly out so I haven’t pushed forward on this thinking I may smoke myself out of the garage unless I can through the garage door up. Warmer weather looks like it’s right around the corner, so I better get this done and get the cases to a welder before I get caught up and end up waiting on them to move forward. Slow and steady, but I’m trying to do everything right the first time.
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PanPal
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Re: Why did this 58 FL get parked?

#144

Post by PanPal » Wed Mar 28, 2018 6:26 pm

Before the dash, and rear terminal board were attached, I made sure all paint was removed from the machined surfaces on the frame. Both had evidence of being mounted with star washers as well so they were reinstalled this way to insure the box and mounting studs as well as the dash are grounded securely to the frame.

PanPal
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Re: Why did this 58 FL get parked?

#145

Post by PanPal » Fri Mar 30, 2018 8:37 pm

No pictures today. The ignition switch terminal repair turned out very well. When attempting to drill from the hollow side, the broken piece of rivet spun immediately and came out of the ring. I had the terminal held to the ring with a pair of vice grips so nothing moved. I drilled through the contact with a # 43 drill bit and tapped the hole. Using the same washer that the rivet was backed up with I screwed a 4-40 brass round head screw into the contact. Filed off the protruding screw on the contact side and reshaped the contact button taper. I then filed off most of the round head so that it was about as thick as the other rivets. Cleaned all ignition switch components with a wire wheel and some scotch brite cloth. After assembling the switch I put die electric grease on the contacts and the barbell. It works like new and makes good contact in all positions now. As I was landing wires, this bike was not wired to the print. 2 wires were landed on the wrong terminals behind the headlight, but appear to be spare or accessory terminals anyway. 1 wire was wired to the ignition switch terminal lower left side that is not used in the print but now matches the print. Were police bikes wired differently? I've now completed connections and ohm readings for all wires and terminals on the dash and other than wiring in the headlight connector wire the front terminal board is complete also. Now to get the terminals wired behind the coil. I straighten out a few dents in the replacement foot boards that will be used. A few dents were bad enough that I took the boards into work and built up the dents with weld and will grind them back to shape. About ready to install the new pads on these. I started cleaning up the original coil that will be used. The bottom cap for this coil has rusted through in two places and I can see the potting substance inside. I believe this to be a good coil and I now need some way to seal the bottom so the potting doesn't start dripping out when the coil arms up. There was evidence it had started to leak before cleaning up the coil. I have a spare known to be working V twin coil with leads, but really want to run the original coil. Ideas on sealing the rust holes in the bottom someway would be appreciated. I also cleaned up the steering dampener parts but need to slightly tighten or loosen the splined nut so the first plate will line up with the holes in the top tree. Its a big relief to me that the wiring is almost completed. Looking back at all the moving parts that have been and are planned to be serviced and re bushed or new bearings, I really need to get the generator disassembled, cleaned, and inspected inside. Is there a source for new generator screws if I break whats holding it together now? I couldn't get the hand impact to bite well on the heads and they seem pretty tight even after heating and soaking. Looking forward to more progress this weekend however Sunday will be a big family gathering for Easter.

PanPal
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Re: Why did this 58 FL get parked?

#146

Post by PanPal » Fri Apr 06, 2018 8:59 pm

Still no luck getting the long screws out of the generator. I heated around the head with a acetylene oxygen torch and the brush side area where the threads are and proceeded to snap the flat head tip on my hand impact. I’ve seen a couple screws listed on e bay one set had a more extreme angle than a normal counter sink screw. The other set was hex heads that won’t work with this generator. I may need to find a set and drill the heads off the current bolts to get this apart. Pretty sure I only need a positive from the battery wire, and the rear running and brake wires connected to the terminal board behind the coil to button this up. The cover has been straightened so it fits well. I had to make one regulator extension for the regulator mount. The regulator is now cleaned up. Terminal connectors have been derusted a bit. All points have been dressed with crocus paper and blown out, then tested continuity through all three contact points opened and closed. I painted the regulator cover, still real shinny in the picture, but it was just sprayed and didn’t start to dry back yet. I had a set of NOS rubber regulator mounts I bought in error some years back, so they were installed and all hardware cleaned. It looks as though the ground strap from the regulator housing to the regulator mount was not hooked up but was hanging there. I remember this breaking on my 59 and the generator light would stay on all the time. This is reattached and now the mount is properly grounded to the regulator body. I’ve been sanding the foot boards and still need to grind the welds so these can get painted. I mounted the front fender, installed the brake assembly and attached the cable. Installed the front wheel and adjusted the front brake. Seems to spin free and stops when the brake is applied. I tightened up the rear axle and brake backing plate mount nuts, then loosened the brake adjuster and the rear wheel is spinning free. The rear brake hose is installed and the brake line from the rear brake hose to and including the brake light pressure switch is installed. I have 2 rusty Duoglide luggage racks. One has decent rails and one has better mounting brackets. I’m taking them apart and assembling the best of both for this bike. Guess I’ll blast the other parts and paint one to sell at the next swap meet. Missing 2 riser cover studs. I got 2 a while back but one is broken and too short to use, so I have some hex materiel out now so I can fabricate the last one needed. Here’s a few pictures, wish I took one before putting the ignition switch back together. I sanded the bottom of the coil down to fresh metal with no rust. There is one very small rusted through hole near one corner. I decided I would use some fast metal quick patch and see how this does to keep the potting inside the coil when it's hot. Then dust some satin paint over the bottom. If it leaks, I figure out something else or put the V twin coil on as a worst case scenario.
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PanPal
Posts: 1168
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Re: Why did this 58 FL get parked?

#147

Post by PanPal » Tue Apr 10, 2018 11:05 pm

Generator..... Finally able to remove the screws and separate the aluminum end with brush holders from the body. It looks like I will be able to salvage the screws and reuse them. There was a lot of built up grit inside, so I'm really glad this came apart so it can be cleaned and gone through. One wire has 3 bare spots on it that can be repaired by putting heat shrink tube on it. Now I'm stuck again and don't want to break anything. I have 2 questions..... I removed the pin holding the sleeve, spring and ratchet gear on the shaft. The other half of the ratchet gear assembly needs to come off so I can replace the bearings. This is the gear in the third picture in front of the bearing and slinger. Is it keyed and pressed on? The bearing on the fan side looks like a shielded bearing on one side and you can see open rollers on the other side of the bearing, but I see no way to lubricate this bearing once assembled. Should both bearings be shielded bearings on both sides?
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PanPal
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Re: Why did this 58 FL get parked?

#148

Post by PanPal » Wed Apr 11, 2018 10:29 pm

Ok, so I believe it to be splined after trying to find this info from pictures on e bay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Harley-Lichtma ... 10&vxp=mtr

Now that I know this, I could tap or press the shaft out through the gear and the bearing if I can't get a puller on it. If it were keyed and I tried pressing out the shaft, the key would have hit on the bearing before coming out and possibly damaging the housing.

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Re: Why did this 58 FL get parked?

#149

Post by PanPal » Wed Apr 18, 2018 8:31 pm

The generator armature pressed out easily. I’ve ordered 6201 and 6202 bearings to replace the open face bearing that were in there and full of grit. I’m going to install sealed bearing to keep the grit out. The armature commutator has one flat spot on it but there were no burnt spots before or after cleaning. I will turn this down in a lathe and clean the slots then check for shorts. I’ve painted the footboards and they are ready for the pads to be installed. The motor cases were baked in a oven for about 12 hours and this is after about 4 boils in a pot of water with Dawn dishwashing liquid. The cases were then wire wheeled to get off residual oxidation. So I got called into work Saturday night. The plan was to go set up at a swap meet Saturday afternoon and sell, buy and swap Sunday. Since work interfered, I couldn’t make it and decided I was taking a day yesterday. I shot up to my buddies house with parts. The cases are on their way to the welder for repair. Wanting to disassemble fit and repair my transmission. I ended up swapping transmissions with my buddy and now have a 63 date coded case with good Harley gears bearings and shafts. We installed the lid with slotted head screws. Aligned the forks and shifted it through the gears. I was ready to set it in the frame last night but after taking a close look, the lid cracked from pin on the sprocket side. It looks like the weld was a bit porous. I’ll take this off and weld it myself this time. I picked up a Harley part numbered black kicker arm with a good pedal swivel but the fudge sickle pad is burnt up from a fire. I have another pad that I will install on this and run it. Also picked up two tank emblems, one is a 58 with patina. The other is a 57 with a lot of paint missing. I started picking at the red paint and the ring that should be Black for 58. I’ll attempt some touch up if I figure a way to get the paint off without destroying the plastic. He also gave me a better speedometer and we installed a part of broken inner cable and tested it and it was reading. This one has all the numbers but the glass is fogged on part of the speedometer. I plan to remove the bezel to be replaced with the better bezel on my old speedometer and see if I can clean the inside of the glass a bit while I’m changing this out. I also took the Linkert up and we started disassembling this. it needs more soaking but the bushings looked good. The Armstrong float looked ok and still had a gloss finish. The emulsion tube spring came out in pieces and will need replaced. So this stayed up at his house for him to finish after it soaks for a while. We took the flywheel back apart and cleaned up the rusted wheels. The crank pin had a ledge on the bottom and the pinion shaft had a little too much going on where the rollers ride. Both shafts were replaced. The rod races we cleaned up on the Sunnen and looked very good. The rod bearing were plug fitted and we installed .0004 over rollers to get the right clearance. We trued this in the truing stand. This stayed at his house also. No sense in dragging this back and forth. I will be building the motor there when the cases are done anyway. I didn’t get pictures of everything, but here are a couple from yesterday and this morning.
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PanPal
Posts: 1168
Joined: Wed Apr 21, 2004 8:57 pm
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Re: Why did this 58 FL get parked?

#150

Post by PanPal » Thu May 17, 2018 5:20 pm

Moving forward slowly. After seeing the parts assembly, someone removed the baffle plate in the generator at some point. I found one on e bay thanks to the part number Hydra supplied me with. This came yesterday. I’ve drilled and tapped the spider for the fan shroud mounting screws. The brushes need to be installed, wires connected to the brush holder and install the gear on the other end and it should be in good shape. The commutator was turned and the tedious cleaning of the mica between the segments has been completed. The foot boards are ready and the pads went on well and look good to me. I’ve cleaned up the 57 tank badge so I can attempt to repaint it to the 58 colors. I will also try to apply some acrylic glue in the cracks on these badges but they aren’t so cracked they will fall apart in pieces the way they are. I disassembled the replacement speedometer face and cleaned the inside of the lens. The number are very bright now, but it is a sticker, not painted on like it was originally. It appears the fog was from sticker glue and someone cut out the center of the sticker so it is clear and never scraped off the glue. The black paint on the supporting ring behind the glass was rusted and the white paint on the other side was almost nonexistent so this has been repainted. I removed the bezel from the original speedometer of the bike to put on this original speedometer. I also will remove the housing and paint it white inside due to missing paint. I’m pretty sure the white is suppose to help with the dim illumination. I welded up the ratchet lid for the trans and reinstalled it. 2 days later I found the gasket for the ratchet assembly cover on the work bench, so I need to take this back off and install the gasket. I installed the kicker pad and painted the kicker arm. The transmission and plate are in the frame now. It looks like I don’t have enough clearance between the ratchet cover and the oil tank to allow the transmission to be adjusted for primary chain tension. I might have the incorrect spacers under the front battery tray mounts. This is on the list of things to get corrected. A new master cylinder rebuild kit is now installed and the brake lines are on. I pulled out the shifter and brake side brackets and will be starting to clean and lube these up so they can be installed and get the back brake functioning. The headlight bucket and front fork cover are on. I need to wire in the headlight harness then the rear tins can be installed. I have a buddy coming Saturday evening to visit. We usually end up down in the garage working on one of my panheads until 4 in the morning when he comes so I’m laying out a plan to work on getting the seat and tee installed. We will probably work on putting one good luggage rack together from the 2 I have and get the rear fender bolted on tight. The luggage rack bolts will have to come back out to install the Royolite bag bracket when I pick it up from another friends house. He picked up some original black bags and a better mounting bracket for this bike. I’ve been sorting through the pile now and putting anything for motor assembly in one bucket so when the motor is ready to put together, I’ll have everything in one container and won’t show up without something we need. I will have to go through these parts and clean all of them up to save time when its ready to start assembly. Had the mousetrap assembly out and started to clean some rust from the cover. It looks solid and cleaned up pretty well. It still needs to come apart and get it ready to put in service. Been soaking down the buddy pegs and brackets to get them ready also. More soaking and cleaning needed.
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