Help id oem 50el pic heavy

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easyspeed
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Re: Help id oem 50el pic heavy

#16

Post by easyspeed » Sun Nov 11, 2018 3:20 pm

RUBONE wrote:
Sun Nov 11, 2018 1:14 am
It has stroker plates on it. Could be 61 length cylinders or an actual stroker., only measuring would tell. I wonder where the rivet holes went when the o-ring conversion was done?? :mrgreen:
The hardware on the lifter blocks is correct, but the blocks are not. Aftermarket stuff.
The name could be a previous owner, or the original rebuilder/tuner. I've seen several with builders names on them. And Schaefer was the name of a cam grinder in the old days, maybe they built it?
Engine came from Wisconsin/ Minnesota area and if I remember correctly the J. Schaefer name was the builder. What are tou referring to as far as the rivet holes and oring conversion? Are you talking about the intake? Kind of made me thing they were aftermarket aswell. Either way its not going to hurt my feelings. I didn’t pay original panhead price for this guy.😉 Thanks everyone for the response



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Re: Help id oem 50el pic heavy

#17

Post by easyspeed » Wed Nov 14, 2018 2:02 am

Stoke measured 4.25” and pistons are 3 7/16”. Engine is new top to bottom. Looks like some balancing may have been done on the flywheels. Not seeing any std or s and s castings. So most likely 80” wheels..?

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Re: Help id oem 50el pic heavy

#18

Post by RUBONE » Wed Nov 14, 2018 2:30 am

80" wheels are smaller diameter than '41 up OHV wheels and fairly easy to identify. What do the crankpin nuts look like through the timing hole? Flange on them?

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Re: Help id oem 50el pic heavy

#19

Post by easyspeed » Wed Nov 14, 2018 3:24 am

I can’t see a thing through the timing hole.

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Re: Help id oem 50el pic heavy

#20

Post by RUBONE » Wed Nov 14, 2018 4:14 am

When the flywheels are approximately at TDC you can see the edge of the crankpin at the bottom of the hole. If they are 80 wheels they use a stepped pin with smaller nuts than an OHV. The nuts have a flange on them, not square edged. It is all visible, use a flashlight to look in there. If the wheels are 80 offset bored you can see that as well.

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Re: Help id oem 50el pic heavy

#21

Post by RooDog » Wed Nov 14, 2018 5:20 am

Old FlatHead 80" Stroker , 4.25", wheels are smaller than stock 74" Panhead wheels, but aftermarket 4.25 stroker wheels, like from Truett & Osborn, or S&S are typically the same OD as stock 74 wheels, and use the standard tapered crank pin. This engine could have any of the above wheels installed, or maybe something else. My 4-5/8 S&S Shovelhead kit from S&S came with stroker plates like this engine is sporting......
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Re: Help id oem 50el pic heavy

#22

Post by easyspeed » Wed Nov 14, 2018 6:02 pm

I pulled the head and cylinder last night. The wheels fill the case. They have a timing mark and a 0 stamped aside it. The pan does still have the tapered main shaft.

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Re: Help id oem 50el pic heavy

#23

Post by easyspeed » Wed Nov 14, 2018 7:21 pm


Doc37W
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Re: Help id oem 50el pic heavy

#24

Post by Doc37W » Thu Nov 15, 2018 12:20 am

Looks to me like the lifter blocks are '78 and up, as they aren't countersunk for the lifter block screws. I believe Colony makes a flat base 1/4"X 24 screw for such an application. Get them to fit your blocks, or get the blocks countersunk to fit your screws. '78 and up blocks use 1/4" X 20 screw (don't use, wrong thread for your case!) Doc

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Re: Help id oem 50el pic heavy

#25

Post by Andygears » Thu Nov 15, 2018 10:30 pm

Before further disassembly, I would get a feeler gage measurement into the scraper area at the bottom of your second picture. It looks like full normal diameter flywheels like S & S.

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Re: Help id oem 50el pic heavy

#26

Post by 41Craig » Wed Dec 05, 2018 11:07 pm

I would take a good look at those tappet blocks. The original aluminum tappet blocks have a groove on the motor side to drain off the oil from the push rods. The '53 and later cast iron tappet blocks do not have the grooves, but have pressure feed holes for the new hydraulic lifter that is part of the new tappet. These early and late tappet blocks are not interchangeable.
Craig

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Re: Help id oem 50el pic heavy

#27

Post by RooDog » Fri Dec 07, 2018 7:14 pm

easyspeed wrote:
Wed Nov 14, 2018 6:02 pm
I pulled the head and cylinder last night. The wheels fill the case. They have a timing mark and a 0 stamped aside it. The pan does still have the tapered main shaft.
Yes the Sprocket Shaft is tapered. I was referring to the Crank Pin, what the rods swing on, and it is deep inside the engine accessible only with a complete tear-down. Knuckleheads, and Flathead flywheels, often used for home made 80" strokers, had a "stepped" crank pin. It had shoulder that the FWs butted against rather than a true taper. Again, only visible with a complete teardown.
RooDog

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Re: Help id oem 50el pic heavy

#28

Post by RUBONE » Fri Dec 07, 2018 8:04 pm

had a "stepped" crank pin. It had shoulder that the FWs butted against rather than a true taper. Again, only visible with a complete teardown
Not so RooDog. The stepped section is narrower than the wheels and never touches them when assembled. The crankpin has normal tapers that the wheels seat on, the step does not come into play. It was merely to allow the new '41 up rollers to be used on U series and retrofit to earlier E series engines without making new flywheels.

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Re: Help id oem 50el pic heavy

#29

Post by RooDog » Fri Dec 07, 2018 9:41 pm

RUBONE wrote:
Fri Dec 07, 2018 8:04 pm
had a "stepped" crank pin. It had shoulder that the FWs butted against rather than a true taper. Again, only visible with a complete teardown
Not so RooDog. The stepped section is narrower than the wheels and never touches them when assembled. The crankpin has normal tapers that the wheels seat on, the step does not come into play. It was merely to allow the new '41 up rollers to be used on U series and retrofit to earlier E series engines without making new flywheels.
Robbie....
As the Millenniums say, "My Bad"> Having never had hands on stepped crank pin I ass-umed the wheels butted against the step, but also knew that would render the taper useless and leave the crank less than firmly assembled. So I learnt something today. But, my comment was still aimed at the bike owner's comment #22 about the tapered mainshaft, which was not what I was referring to. Surely this is some sort of Frankenstein motor and not a real issue if one simply wants to have fun and ride it hard. That's the way I have always built 'em. You should see my home made Evo. LOL..
RooDog

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Re: Help id oem 50el pic heavy

#30

Post by RUBONE » Sat Dec 08, 2018 1:20 am

H-D did do some press together cranks, XAs, '52-'53 K models, American made lightweights, Krs, XRs, Italian lightweights. And those all do press against a shoulder. So did most of the Euro, British, and Japanese industry, so no worries!! :D

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