Clutch hub.

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George Greer
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Clutch hub.

#1

Post by George Greer » Mon Jan 07, 2019 10:37 am

Been looking at KB and threads and either I am really not looking hard enough or, I simply can't find what I am looking for.

I have been going over project bike's parts, and overhauling them all. I am now up to the clutch parts that I have collected and I have 2 hubs, and they are not the same.

One on the left has a extra bit of material around the taper, and when I trial fit it on my transmission, the back side hits the "super-nut with seal".

One on the right has less material around the taper and when I put in on the transmission, there is about 3/16" of the slot for the woodruff key exposed.

What gives? I actually never gave much thought into the clutch basket assembly, but now I am.....

One on the right, is actually in better shape, but I am going to replace the threaded studs, (threads buggered up). I have read up on the threads for replacing the studs and got a pretty good handle on doing that task.

Help....which is correct for me to use?

Thanks.

George
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Re: Clutch hub.

#2

Post by 1950Panhead » Mon Jan 07, 2019 2:26 pm

George,
Hub on right is panhead.
Hub on left is later or belt drive, Robbie will know.

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Re: Clutch hub.

#3

Post by RooDog » Mon Jan 07, 2019 2:27 pm

Yes the one on the left with the raised center will hit your SuperNut, I had the same problem with my '50 Panny and simply took a grinder to it to get it flush like the one on the right which happens to be from an electric start/aluminum primary to clear the support bearing. Modify the left one, or use the right one unless there is some other issue.....
RooDog

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Re: Clutch hub.

#4

Post by Don P » Wed Jan 09, 2019 5:03 pm

Use the one on the right with the super nut. The directions for the super nut state you may have to grind material off the hub to get the clearance for the nut. The left hub is an early hub and the right hub is a later hub I believe to be 65 and later. While you are changing the studs replace the 3 springs that hold the plate on the keeps your rollers in place

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#5

Post by Frankenstein » Thu Jan 10, 2019 2:37 am

While you're at it, remove the friction disk from the hub, chuck the hub in the lathe, and turn the backing plate for the friction disk FLAT. Most aren't. Then, use the "Custom Chrome 18327 Clutch Hub Friction Disc Free Floating", (do a web search), instead of a riveted disk. Next, fit the long roller kit. If you have trouble getting the rollers to fit in between your hub and clutch basket, a problem I've had with some belt drive baskets, chuck the hub up again and cut a little off the bearing surface 'till you have a nice easy fit of rollers. You can use a "tamer" disk to hold the rollers in place, but it isn't really necessary. Just follow long roller kit's instructions. Use a spare mainshaft and nut to hold the clutch hub in the lathe if the tranny's already together.
Next, before assembly, check that motor sprocket shaft and transmission mainshaft are absolutely PARALLEL! Motor mount or transmission mount may need modifying to attain this. This is the most important step
Now, you'll have a smoothly engaging clutch.
Oh yeah, also check to see if your aftermarket kicker cover allows the throwout bearing a full range of motion for the clutch pushrod. If memory serves, about 3/8" at clutch hub end. If not, clearance inside of kicker cover so throwout bearing can move freely. If there's excess free travel in external clutch arm before it begins to move the throwoutbearing/pushrod, the kicker housing is likely the culprit.
There George, more than you asked for!
Was on a clutch kick last year, those were my findings. Your results may vary, :D
I haven't had great luck with "super nuts", but maybe you will. I just fill the grooves with silicone and use a plain nut.
DD

George Greer
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Re: Clutch hub.

#6

Post by George Greer » Thu Jan 10, 2019 11:21 am

Herr Dr.

Always good to hear from you.

I thank you for the tips and advice!

In addition to the supernut to keep the oil inside of the gearbox, when I overhauled the transmission, I got one of Ray's O-ring spacers for the shaft.

Since the project is now home here in Germany with me, instead of being in Portland Oregon and me working on it a couple of days every year I am making quite a bit of progress on it.

I hope to have the rest on the project done and rideable by spring.

So far:
Engine done.
Transmission done.
Front forks overhauled.
New bearings in frame neck
Swing arm all new bearings sleeves/spacers.
Overhauled the dash base from two junk ones.

Still got to clean the oil tank, and gas tanks. I have some frame stuff that I want to bead blast to bare metal then primer and paint them.
Wheels are hopefully next week going to be looked at for bead-blasted to bare aluminum and clear coated. Bearings/seal and spacers I have on hand.

Still got some work to do, but I am getting there. and now that I am retired, I have time to work on it.

Along with spoiling the granddaughter.

Again, Thanks.

George

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Re: Clutch hub.

#7

Post by Frankenstein » Thu Jan 10, 2019 3:21 pm

Sounds like good progress to me. Just talking to a guy over the weekend about Ray's O ring. Lots of good feedback on that one. I was never able to get the o ring to stay where it belonged on the super nut.
Question, what's aluminum on the wheels that you're blasting? Mental fuzz, can't think of what's aluminum on a star hub.
So, if your tranny is together, you'll need to borrow a mainshaft, any year will do, to chuck up your clutch hub. I'd send you one, but, I'm sure shipping would be a killer.
Envy you on the granddaughter, my sons are NOT cooperating on that score.
Dick

George Greer
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Re: Clutch hub.

#8

Post by George Greer » Thu Jan 10, 2019 4:33 pm

Herr Dr.

I do have a old shaft in the basement that came in a basket case transmission that I got for cheap, gonna build it up as a spare.

Attached is a pic of the bike in its final "mock-up" stage just prior to being shipped to Germany. I did take the time to "win" 4 turn-signals for 20 USD and upgraded for the ID10T drivers. Have been looking for a original 3 position switch for them, but no luck as of yet.

Wheels are 9 spoke aluminum. Front and rear. Got lucky when I found them both. Cuz they match

Pretty much what I am looking for as my retirement toy. As it stands right now. But I am looking into other options for the seating.

Ain't gotta go fast, just be reliable.

George
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Re: Clutch hub.

#9

Post by nmaineron » Thu Jan 10, 2019 6:42 pm

I'm liken that front fender...:-)

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Re: Clutch hub.

#10

Post by RUBONE » Thu Jan 10, 2019 7:41 pm

Any two position switch can be easily made into a three position. The brass contact pin just needs a notch filed in it so it sits in the middle position when not to either side.

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Re: Clutch hub.

#11

Post by Buddhahoodvatoloco » Thu Jan 10, 2019 8:22 pm

Looks good, especially if your happy with it.
You get your TUV checklist scratched off.

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Re: Clutch hub.

#12

Post by panhead_kicker » Thu Jan 10, 2019 8:50 pm

RUBONE wrote:
Thu Jan 10, 2019 7:41 pm
Any two position switch can be easily made into a three position. The brass contact pin just needs a notch filed in it so it sits in the middle position when not to either side.
To follow up on Robbie's comment, the part number is 71859-38A. (Also not in the 58-68 catalog for some reason!)
71859-38A_.JPG
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FL54
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Re: Clutch hub.

#13

Post by FL54 » Fri Jan 11, 2019 3:42 pm

Hey George,
Just listed on eBay, a NOS turn signal switch. Kind of spendy but far superior to any chiwanese switch that is guaranteed to fail.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Harley-Panhead ... Sw6CRcLl0K

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Re: Clutch hub.

#14

Post by RooDog » Sat Jan 12, 2019 3:13 pm

feel better about this seller than I do about Animalhouse, as he gives a detailed explination/description of the switch he is offering. This would be my choice between the two....

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Harley-70058-5 ... 0169.m2942

RooDog

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Re: Clutch hub.

#15

Post by FL54 » Sat Jan 12, 2019 3:40 pm

I have gotten parts from Blarneyrubble in the past and found them to be a reputable seller. However, Roodog, I can guarantee you that is an aftermarket switch with cloth covered wiring. I have found that these switches work for a while but invariably fail. They also don't quite fit the bars correctly. I could never understand why, if you're going to copy something, why can't you make it exactly right? Don't know about others but I'm willing to pay a premium for OEM parts made in the USA.

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